Septic Tank System

Installing a Septic System

2007-11-23T23:10:00.000-08:00

When you are building a home and are not within range of your municipalities public sewer system, you will probably have to install a septic system.

What is a septic system? How does it work?

A septic system is an underground disposal system that accepts all of the effluent (waste) from your home and disposes of it in a very simple way.

Normally a concrete septic tank is installed (although in some areas you might have a need for plastic) to accept the waste from your home. One side of the tank receives the solid material and the other takes the liquids. This is done by a simple baffle installed between the two compartments.

As the liquid rises it finds the outlet side of the tank and flows into a distribution box. The distribution box is installed level, and as the liquid rises it finds the leach field pipes and flows evenly to the leaching fields.

The leaching fields can me as simple as beds of gravel with leach pipe placed over the gravel bed, or underground chamber systems. The water flows down the leaching pipes and drips into the gravel beds (normally 3 ft in depth, depending on the water table in your area).

While you will have to check with your local Department of Environmental Quality (or other such name), this is the basic idea of a septic system.

If you would like to take a photo tour of an actual septic installation, please visit http://www.tucsonseptics.com/septic_Installation.html

Tucson Septic Systems is licensed in Commercial and Residential Septic Installations.

Proper Septic System Care and Maintenance

2007-11-20T22:32:00.000-08:00

Proper Care and Feeding of a Septic System

How your septic system works and how to maintain it.

By Bruce Lunsford, Able Home Inspections Naples, Fort Myers, Cape Coral, Marco Island Florida

For an illustrated version of this article please visit my web site.

As a home inspector located in SW Florida, I deal regularly with septic systems. I can say without a doubt that at least 90% of homeowners have no idea how to care for septic systems. It is very rare for me to have a client that has even a basic understanding of how this critical system works, let alone how to maintain it. As a result of this lack of understanding thousands of systems needlessly fail every year. Basically a septic system is the preferred method for disposing of sewage when there is no city sewage hookup available.

As the title suggests a septic system is a common living breathing component of homes and as such, it has special needs. It is the only system that depends on live microorganisms to function properly. If properly designed and maintained, it is nearly a perfect system with little environmental impact. Unlike public sanitation, it does not require the dumping of millions of gallons of tainted water into public waterways. It cleans your waste water so effectively that it eventually returns to the water table where it is available for use again, as pure as the day it was originally pumped out.

Before we discuss how to care for this critical and expensive system, let's talk about how it works.

HOW IT WORKS

A typical septic system has 2 basic components and the pipes that interconnect them. Although there are many minor variations on these, most installed systems are pretty much the same, and the all work on the same principal. When there are variations in design, the primary reasons are poor soil permeability, limited space and high water tables.

The Septic Tank

The septic tank is the first stop in this private sewage treatment system. It is responsible for collecting and digesting the solid material in the drain lines, then sending the liquid (called effluent) out to the next component, the drainfield. It is absolutely critical that the solid materials do not leave the tank and enter the drainfield. Common residential sizes of the tank are in the 1,500 to 2,000 gallon range with the actual size determined by the number of bedrooms. The tank has a series of baffles or compartments that ensure the solids settle to the bottom and the floating scum layer stays on top of the water. Over time bacteria and other microorganisms digest the materials and reduce their bulk. The effluent then moves out to the Drainfield / Absorption Field.

Drainfield / Absorption Field

The drainfield rests on top of the absorption field and is little more than lengths of pipes with holes in them. The effluent enters these pipes and leaks out into the absorption field. The absorption field is simply a bed of effluent specially designed to allow the effluent to drain through it. The most common materials are gravel and sand. The size of the field is determined by the number of bedrooms in the home and the permeability of the soil. The soil provides filtration for the effluent and hosts additional bacteria and microorganisms that further clean the effluent. While a small amount of the effluent evaporates or is absorbed by plants, most of it eventually returns to the water table.

How to Care for Your System

Rule #1. Nothing goes down the drains that doesn't have to, especially if it isn't readily biodegradable. Sanitary napkins, washing out paint brushes, dumping mop water, and scraping partially eaten food into the disposal etc. should be avoided. I even recommend using paper towels to remove grease from pans prior to washing them. If you have to have a garbage disposal, use it sparingly. Things like grease and egg shells should never be put down the disposal because they don't easily break down. Starting an outdoor compost pile is always a great way to get rid of those organic items you wisely don't put into your septic system.

Rule #2. DO NOT use additives in your system. There are numerous additives available at hardware stores that claim to keep your system clean. I don't want to get into brand names, but you've seen the commercials on TV. "Simply add our product to your system once a month and keep it trouble free." This has been a source of controversy for some time, so the Federal Department of Health actually did a study on this and came to the conclusion that they most likely do no good, and are more likely to cause harm. If you wish to read the study, follow this link. http://www.doh.wa.gov/EHP/ts/WW/Septic-Additives-SFQ-Wint2002.pdf I won't bore you with the details of the study. I will however tell you that using these additives are absolutely not a substitute for proper routine maintenance.

Rule #3. This is the most important of all. Have your tank pumped out every 3 to 5 years, depending on age, size and usage. This is absolutely critical. Although the bacteria does a wonderful job of reducing your solid wastes, it cannot completely eliminate it. If the tank is not periodically pumped, this sludge eventually builds up high enough that it is forced to enter the drainfield. When that happens, you ruin the drainfield and you're looking at a new system which commonly costs in the $3,000 to $5,000 range. If you take nothing else away from this article, please remember to have your system pumped out every 3 to 5 years! If you do this, your system should last decades instead of years. If everything is done perfectly, your system could theoretically last indefinitely.

Rule #4. Keep trees out of the system. Tree roots can destroy the system so keep a healthy distance between trees and other large plants and your septic system.

The last bit of advice I can give is to be sure and get your septic system thoroughly inspected prior to purchasing your home. The last thing you want is to move in and find out a few weeks later that you have no operational sewage system. Imagine the inconvenience of not being able to flush your toilets or take a shower for a few weeks while a new system is installed. Not to mention the privilege of paying thousands of dollars for the new septic system, then getting to replace the sod in your yard.

Following these simple guidelines will help ensure you have a septic system that gives decades of trouble free service.This article is free to use as long as a link back is provided to the author.

Note: Bruce Lunsford has over 25 years of experience in inspecting, engineering and construction. Bruce has performed over 8,000 inspections to date and is a certified member of ASHI and FABI, the highest certifications available to inspectors. For additional information please visit his web page www.ableinspector.com

Bruce Lunsford is a full time home inspector located in SW Florida. Bruce has over 27 years of combined construction experience and can be reached through his web site at www.ableinspector.com Home Inspections Naples, Fort Myers, Cape Coral, Marco Island Florida

The Value of a Septic System Inspection

2007-11-19T22:59:00.001-08:00

Buying a home in Texas? This might mean that you're buying one that has a septic system. As part of the home inspection process, I always recommend that the buyers order a septic inspection from a licensed septic servicing company early in the option period of the contract.

A septic system inspection isn't inexpensive, but it can prevent future headaches. The price may be anywhere from $400 to $750 depending on the type and the size of the system. The more expensive inspection is for aerobic septic systems.

There are several types of inspections that a septic company can do. A walk-over is a very simple inspection and really doesn't tell you much. For about $250, an inspector will open many faucets in the house to flood the septic system. When the inspector is certain that the system has water flowing from through the septic tank to the drain field, he walks over the drain field to see if there is any visual evidence of sewage at the surface.

I recommend ordering a more detailed inspection, which usually takes about two hours. The inspector uncovers the tank lid or lids and then pump the tanks. After this has been done, the inspector checks the tank visually to make sure the structural integrity of the tank is good. If the septic system is an aerobic one, the inspector will run water through the entire system to test all valves, mechanical parts and the sprinkler heads.

If something is discovered about the septic system that isn't in good condition, the buyers can get an estimate of what it will cost to make repairs. This can then be used to negotiate the contract or you can walk away from the sale.

If the septic system is close enough to a body of water, an authority determined by the state may require an inspection so that the new owner can obtain a license to operate the system. A Buyer's Agent should be able to assist buyers with this in addition to the regular inspection.

Repair or replacement of a septic system can be very costly. This is exactly why I recommend that buyers order a full inspection. I would rather see them spend $500+ during the option period even if the pull the plug on the contract than $15,000+ later for repairs.

Sam Chapman is a REALTOR? in the Austin, TX area who specializes in Lake Travis real estate.

Septic System Design Secrets

2007-11-19T22:57:00.000-08:00

First and foremost, hire a good septic designer to do the necessary tests and drainfield design , BEFORE you design the house!!! Go out with them and tell them where you would like to situate the house, but let them give their input. Sometimes just moving the house a few feet in one direction will make the difference between a regular, gravity fed system and a more expensive pump system.

I had some friends that were going to build and I tried advising them on this, but wouldn't listen. The irony is, if they would have listened and moved the house about 10 feet to the west, they could have gone with a gravity fed system for about $3,500. As it turned out, they spent more than $8,000 because they put the house right where the drainfield should have gone.

Also, if they say you cannot go with a regular septic system design, ask them about ALL the different types of systems you may be able to go with and the advantages/disadvantages of each type. If they are pushing you toward one type of septic system design it may be because that is the only type of system they do. You may want to take your copy of the site/soil conditions (make sure to get a copy) and call/visit a few other contractors to get their opinion.

When you buy property and are going to put in a septic system, there are safeguards that are supposed to protect you. The way the process is supposed to work is, you, as the property owner, hire a septic designer to assess the site and design a system that will meet the needs of the home and will work with the existing site/soil conditions. They then present this plan to the local agency in charge of septic systems, usually the health or zoning office. They approve or disapprove the plan. Then a septic installer installs the system according to that plan. Then the building inspector comes to the site and inspects the system to make sure the system was installed properly (according to the plan).

This is the way it is supposed to work in theory...but it doesn't always go according to plan. The skill level of designers, installers and inspectors varies greatly from state to state. Some states, such as Massachusetts, are very progressive. They require the contractors and inspectors to be well trained and certified if they are going to be dealing with septic systems. They are also open to new technologies available to solve problem sites.

However there are areas where the contractors and the government inspectors are way behind the times. In some regions anyone that has a dump truck and a backhoe can dig a septic system. Some of the agencies will still allow systems to be installed that will be illegal in a few years when the local regulations catch up and are enacted. An example is the use of deep systems like cesspools and drywells. These systems have outlawed in most areas of the country but there are a few that still allow them today. What this means is, you can have a cesspool put in now, but in a few years the codes will change and you will have to put in a new system- at your own expense, of course.

The end result is that some of the systems going in are failures waiting to happen. This is why you as the homeowner must take an active role in the septic system design process.

When you know where you want to buy, talk to neighbors that have built in the area in the last few years and ask them what kind of system they installed (don't rely on what someone had a system installed 20 years ago- the codes have probably changed and there is a good chance that their type of system is no longer acceptable. Your local Board of Health can also be a valuable resource. They can not tell you who not to use because that is preventing someone from making a living, but they will often point out the better ones because they know a bad contractor putting in bad systems will make their job tougher.

You may also want to hire a contractor that can also do your other dirt work (the basement, footings, landscaping, etc). If you are using several different contractors the contractor that is digging your footings will often drive over the area where the septic system is supposed to go and damage it. If you have one doing it all they will protect the area when they are working.

Corey K. Tournet is the owner of The Laundry Alternative, a company which specializes in portable washing machines and septic tank care products. You can visit his website at http://www.laundry-alternative.com

What is an Aerobic Septic System?

2007-11-18T22:10:00.000-08:00

OneWhat is an Aerobic Septic System?

Aerobic septic systems are used in situations where standard septic systems are not a viable option. In many cases, they are used to replace failing septic systems. Aerobic systems are similar to septic systems in that they both use natural processes to treat wastewater. But unlike septic (anaerobic) treatment, the aerobic treatment process requires
oxygen. There are two types of bacteria, anaerobic and aerobic.

Aerobic bacteria work much faster than anaerobic bacteria, which means they process septic tank waste more quickly. Aerobic treatment units use a mechanism to inject and circulate air inside the treatment tank, which accelerates or speeds up the treatment process. This mechanism requires electricity to operate. For this reason, aerobic systems cost more to operate and need more routine maintenance than most septic systems.

However, when properly operated and maintained, aerobic systems can provide a high quality wastewater treatment alternative to septic systems. They can also be used in some cases by owners of wooded lots, who don't want to clear enough land to install a traditional septic tank and drainfield.

http://www.a1-septic-systems-4u.info/aerobicsepticsystem.html

About The Fiberglass Septic Tank

2007-11-15T21:55:00.001-08:00

To partially clarify and treat wastewater, a septic tank is used. It is a watertight container that is buried and used to be for separating grit and scum from the liquid.

Usually, a septic tank is made of fiberglass, polyethylene and concrete. Back then, redwood and steel were also used as material for septic tanks. But regulatory groups started to go against the use of steel and redwood so they now are not that the most widely used material for septic tanks.

For places that are can not be easily accessed by delivery trucks of concrete tanks, fiberglass septic tanks, which are lighter are more often used. Also, if a fiberglass septic tank has a good thick coating of resin, it will be more durable compared to concrete. This is because that thick resin can?t be easily degraded by the gases that the waste will produce.

So if your area can?t be accessed by delivery trucks, how do you look for the best fiberglass septic tank?

Considering the Size

To come up with an informed decision on what size of fiberglass septic tank will suit your needs, check the local regulations first regarding this matter. Then, consider the number of bathrooms in your house. Normally, a 1000-gallon septic tank will do well for a house with two bedrooms. For houses with three or four bedrooms, a 1,500-gallon septic tank will do.

One or Two Compartments?

There are two kinds of septic tanks depending on number of compartments ? one-compartment and two-compartment. Two-compartment septic tanks are more advised since they make it a lot easier to make solids settle.

Buying a House with a Septic Tank?

Getting a professional septic tank inspector will help you best in knowing whether the home you are about to acquire has a septic system that will be able to handle what you need it to handle.

Durability Check

One great way to see if the manufacturer swears true that the fiberglass septic tank he is selling is of great structural strength, check its warranty offer. Now if it is offering a 50-year warranty, Bingo! Also, look for additional materials that improve the durability of a fiberglass septic tank. FRP or fiberglass-reinforced polyester is one sample of these additives.

Septic tanks and Septic systems are used in places that don?t have a direct access to the sewer system, there are new and very advanced models of septic systems for the home, learn more about Septic Tanks at http://septictank.advice-tips.com

Septic Tank Care And Maintenance Guide

2007-11-14T23:25:00.001-08:00

When building a new house a connection to the sewer system is sometimes a problem, many home owners are left with a hard decision, and many choose to use a septic system, these septic tanks are reliable and efficient, but there are some things that you must remember and always practice if you have a septic tank, otherwise you might have problems with your system.

Proper landscaping

When constructing your septic system, make sure that the soil absorption area is far from rainwater drainage or downspouts. Make sure that it is not underneath your garage and areas where you will put heavy equipment. Divert the water coming from other means away from the septic tank drainfield. Do not construct your septic system near a tree or areas where soil erosion can easily occur. Roots from the trees can get through and damage your septic tank.

Dispose chemicals and other liquid materials properly

Gasoline, paint thinners, motor oil, varnish, and other chemicals that contain active substances can ruin your septic tank walls and can cause hazard to groundwater as well. Make sure you dispose them properly and away from your septic tank system. Also, grease can easily clog in your septic tank so make sure you steer away from disposing them in your toilet.

Differentiate the toilet from garbage cans.

Cigarette butts and filters facial tissues, paper towels, coffee grounds, sanitary napkins, disposable diapers, tampons, cat litter, and other solid waste must be disposed in your garbage bins and not on your toilet. They clog to your septic tank easily.

Proper maintenance

Builders would suggest constructing a septic system with 1,000-gallon capacity for a family of 4. This would last from 3 to 5 years of full time use before you notice that it is getting filled up. When it does, there are professional wastewater treating system services to help you pump out solids on your septic tank.

If there are damages to your tank, do not attempt to open it yourself. Do not enter your septic tank as well. There are bacteria and gases in your tank that can be fatal. Call a professional to make the necessary repairs.

Never use chemical or biological solutions in place of septic tank pumping system.

Upgrade your septic system, like your roof, doors, cabinets, driveway, ceilings, and furnace, your septic tank will need to get an upgrade and possibly a replacement in due time. Do not hesitate to do this. Advances in the latest system will tremendously improve your wastewater disposal system.

Taking proper care of your septic tank and regular maintenance of the septic system will result in a reliable system, one that is not so much different than any sewer system.

Septic tanks and Septic systems are used in places that dont have a direct access to the sewer system, learn more about Fiberglass Septic Tanks at http://septictank.advice-tips.com

Septic Tanks & Retail Ladies Wear - The Creating of a Retail Institution

2007-11-13T21:06:00.000-08:00

Dreams of owning a business is as far as many people get.

What is it that makes one person move heaven and earth to live their dream of starting a business and someone else who seems determined stay an employee?

One woman?s story?

In 1976 a motor home rolled into a small town outside a major North American city. The driver was a woman in her late 40?s, a single parent, traveling with her youngest son. She left everything else behind on the Prairies. The motor home was their home and transportation on their trek west.

There was never any question that she would work for anyone else. The business she had experience in, the manufacture of concrete septic tanks, was not something she wanted to pursue in her new life.

One of the first things she had to ask herself was, ?Do I start a new business and wait for cash flow to start happening or do I buy an existing business??

Starting a new business meant deciding on a concept, finding a location and negotiating a lease. Then the real work would start in the build out and buying furniture/fixtures for the location.

Buying an existing business would provide immediate cash flow, however a business owner often has a vastly different opinion of the value of the business than the prospective purchaser has. It would also take money up front.

A little thing like having no money didn?t stop this determined woman. With diligent research she found a business that had been for sale for awhile. The vendor was anxious to move on. She traded her motor home for his ladies wear store without even doing inventory because she could see the first thing that needed to happen was a Big Clearance Sale.

The women?s fashion industry is one of the toughest businesses to survive in and very unforgiving of purchasing errors. A few mistakes in buying can quickly wipe out any possible profit. The years that spring, summer, or winter don?t arrive when expected, or don?t arrive at all can leave one with a store full of clothing and a bank account empty of cash for the subsequent seasons buying. And she had no experience, just her eye for fashion.

There were a lot of ups and downs, especially during buying season when she traveled, suitcase in tow, sometimes getting off a plane in Toronto in the morning, spending the morning quickly making decisions on what and how many of each to buy, in which sizes and then getting on another plane to fly to Montreal and/or New York and begin the whole process again.

She persevered. There was no other option but to succeed. And she thrived. Her talent for buying led her to become the fashion leader in the much larger metropolitan area near her small municipality. The store was a destination and she became a local legend.

One day when she and I were out driving through a retail area, she stopped and suggested I go in and look at a store. The owner started chatting with me and I said I couldn?t stay that Ella was waiting for me in the car, the owner asked, ? The Ella??. A true sign of a legend!

Business Startup Tips for Entrepreneurs

Start with the intention to create a viable business.

Always be gracious but determined.

Remember failure is not an option.

Get involved in the community, donate to charity events, put on events, mentor others in areas related to your business.

Join the area merchants association and other professional associations.

Look for businesses/people you can collaborate with so you will both be stronger. Don't consider anyone in the same business a rival.

Lobby City Hall or any other organization that can make changes that will help your business and your customers.

Make things happen, don't wait for them to happen.

When you make a mistake don't dwell on it, figure out how to get beyond it.

Fine tune the target market and product marketing based on facts gleaned from systems set up to handle the businesses growth.

30 years have passed and she is still going strong. There have been occasional trips to designer shows in Paris and Milan; Toronto, Montreal and New York remain dependable sources. Her vision has not wavered. Her eye for fashion and her knowledge of her customers is in harmony and it shows in the results.

For over 25 years, Nancy Fraser has worked with business owners to improve their marketing and advertising results. If you are struggling to build your business and not getting the results you want, sign up for the Notable News for FREE Advertising and Marketing tips or contact Nancy and her team to work with you to ramp up your results. http://www.notable-marketing.com

About Septic Tank Cleaners

2007-11-12T22:05:00.001-08:00

Think about the time you had a very large and heavy dinner. How did you belch the following day? Surely, you know that the system in you body that has to process all that food went through a lot of effort.

Well, the process occurring inside a septic tank is not that far from your digestive system. Digestion is basically the decomposition of wastes done by bacteria in an environment where air is absent. In a septic tank setting, gases are also produced in the breakdown of solids. However, these gases are further utilized to stir the foul matters inside instead of being burped out.

A functional septic tank will be able to turn the dregs of solid wastes into liquid form. Nevertheless, similar to your digestive tract, a septic tank encounters several problems as more and more sludge and scum materials are--for want of a better term --deposited. The following materials are some potential clicking time bombs that can eventually wear your septic tank down.

Oil And Grease

Too much dumping of oils and greases into the household or industrial draining system can eventually fill up the brim of the septic tank with hard and rubbery sludge that can block the drains. Oils and grease are very hard to breakdown and can give off unbearable stench over time.

Non-Biodegradable Materials

Generally, non-biodegradable materials will quickly and almost automatically choke your septic tank. There have been countless cases of clogs in houses and apartments caused by sanitary napkins, cotton products, and even condoms.

Kitchen Sink Grinders

Grinders attached to the kitchen sink drainage system can do more harm than benefits. Unsupervised usage of grinders can result to overload of the drain system and unavoidable clogging.

Unwanted Chemicals

Some chemicals can damage the septic tank system. Pesticides, solvents, even bleaches and paints can rapidly cause drainage blockage as the oil contents in these chemicals can form into solid mass of sludge that can be difficult for the septic tank system to disintegrate. Besides, most chemicals can kill the useful bacteria that promote solid waste disintegration inside the septic tank.

Nature's Touch

Nature itself may have a hand in damaging your septic tank. Roots from trees and shrubs, especially those planted right above the septic tank, can creep into the tank and result to breach in the septic tank walls.

Fortunately, for these potential septic problems you have one dependable solution that can counter the ill effects of a malfunctioning septic tank system. A septic tank cleaner is a confection that greatly improves the efficiency of the septic tank. Septic tank cleaners can help you avoid pumping up your drainage to get rid of the clogs.

Daniel Roshard is an interior designer fascinated by outdoor architecture, currently studying public parks and outdoor design. Daniel writes articles about home improvement issues. Learn more about Septic Systems and septic tanks.

Pumping Your Septic Tank

2007-11-11T22:17:00.000-08:00

Pumps are typically either vacuum or centrifugal. Vacuum pumps, the most common system used by septage haulers, have the following advantages: Iiquid does not flow through the pump, which reduces wear; the pump is less likely to freeze; and the tank contents can be discharged under pressure. Vacuum pumps should be equipped with a water trap to prevent dispersion of aerosols. Because liq-uid moves through the pump, centrifugal pumps are more likely to clog and wear more readily from grit and debris. Centrifugal pumps are typically open-impeller or recessed-impeller for handling solids. Both types of centrifugal pumps have a maximum suction lift of about 27 ft (8 m). Some truck-mounted tanks are equipped with high-level automatic shutoff controls to prevent overfilling. Pump capacities are typically at least 400 gal/min (1,500 Umin). Hoses should be of high-vacuum black rubber or synthetic material, with a minimum diameter of 3 in. (8 cm). Hoses should also be capable of being drained and capped to minimize spillage. Haulers typically carry at least 100 ft (30 m) of hose. Discharge valves on the hauler trucks should be drip tight, and a discharge nipple should accommodate a quick-disconnect coupling. Other equipment includes a device for breaking up the scum layer (e.g., a long-handled fork), shovel, soil probe for locating the septic tank, and other tools to either measure accumulations or perform other tasks in the field. A squeegee and suction wand attachments should be carried ??The Pumper,? a monthly publication aimed at the liquid waste hauler industry, produces an annual directory of equipment suppliers that is free with a subscription to ?The Pumper.? to help clean up any spills. Lime should also be available to apply to areas where septage has been spilled.

Mobile septage dewatering systems, originally developed in Europe, are now available in the United States. Withthese systems, septage is pulled from the septic tank into one compartment on the truck; filtrate is returned to the septic tank. Polymer or lime is added to the septage during transfer to a dewatering tank, where solids are concentrated. A sludge solids content of 15 to 20 percent is reportedly achievable for polymer and lime systems, respectively Mobile dewatering systems offer: Lower transportation costs due to fewer trips to the disposal site, greater truck capacity, lower volumes of material requiring further treatment and disposal. These advantages are best suited to areas with many septic tanks and long travel distances to the discharge site. Disadvantages include more complex operational requirements and high equipment investment costs.

After the septic tank has been located and the access hatches exposed, the inlet and outlet baffles or tees are examined for such problems as damage, loose connections, and plugging. Broken pipes or baffles should be replaced or repaired. If the liquid level in the tank is higher than the outlet pipe, this may indicate clogging in the outlet pipe or in the drainfield. Next, the scum mat is manually broken up to facilitate pumping. Before this is done, the liquid level in the septic tank first is lowered below the invert of the outlet, which prevents grease and scum from being washed into the drainfield. After the scum mat is broken up, the contents of the tank are removed. Normally, the vacuum/suction hose draws air at a point where 1 to 2 in. (2.5 to 5 cm) of sludge remains over the tank bottom; this materialshould be left in the tank. Washing down the inside of the tank is unnecessary unless leakage is suspected and the inside must be inspected for cracks, If internal inspection is warranted, fresh air should be continuously blown into the tank for at least 10 min.

Displace toxic gases or oxygen-deficient air. The interior can then be inspected from the surface with a flashlight. A septic tank should never be entered without first testing the air for oxygen content, lower explosive limit, and hydrogen sulfide. This is accomplished using electronic ?triple gas detectors,? available from suppliers of industrial safety equipment. Septic tanks are considered confined spaces and are subject to confined-space entry regulations published by the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA Standard 1910.146). Anyone entering a septic tank should wear a safety harness connected to an aboveground hoist. Two additional workers should be topside to assist the inspector in the event of problems. Your state or local agency responsible for occupational health and safety should be contacted regarding any additional regulations regarding confined-space entry in their jurisdiction. In the event of a spill, septage should be immediately cleaned up. Hydrated lime should be sprinkled over the area of the spill, and a squeegee and a suction wand attached to the end of the vacuum hose are useful tools for cleanup. For large spills, a second pumper truck may be necessary; companies with one truck should reach an agreement with another company to assist in emergency spill cleanup.

Addition of any chemical or biochemical agents to the septic tank, such as disinfectants, microorganisms, and enzymes, is discouraged. Such formulations offer little or no benefit and may even be detrimental to the operation of the septic tank and drainfield. For instance, agents that emulsify grease allow its discharge to the soil absorption system, where the emulsion may break at the soil infiltrative surface and cause increased rates of clogging or pass through the soil to ground water. Other agents are formulated of strong alkaline compounds that can pass through a tank and destroy soil structure. The most detrimental formulations contain chlorinated hydrocarbons, which can pass through the tank and soil to contaminate ground water. Fortunately, many commercial products do little to affect performance of either tanks or soil systems. Although no known benefits have been demonstrated to date, the possibility of an effective formulation in the future cannot be ruled out.

Scott Byers is a major contributor to My Septic Tank Info as well as many other websites. Visit us to find out more about septic tanks.

Septic Tanks

2007-11-07T22:10:00.000-08:00

Septic tanks are sewage-disposal tanks in which anaerobic bacteria decompose a continuous flow of waste material. These tanks are part of small-scale sewage treatment systems often referred to as septic systems. Septic tank systems were first introduced in the United States in the mid 1880's, as two chamber automatic siphoning tank systems, similar in concept to those used nowadays.

A typical septic tank is water tight and divided into two semi-compartments (chambers), usually built in brick or stone and latterly concrete. Fiberglass, steel or plastic tanks are also available. A well-designed and maintained tank system should last around 50 years.

The chambers of the septic tank have two pipes, the input pipe (from the dwelling) and the output pipe (to the leach field). In the septic tank, solid parts such as soap scum or fat in the untreated wastewater float to the top of the tank to form a scum layer, and heavier solids (primarily feces) sink to the bottom of the tank as sludge. Anaerobic bacteria in the tank help the system to digest sludge. The remaining liquids stream out of the tank to the leach field. Baffles installed at the inlet and outlet of the septic tanks, hold back the floating scum from moving past the outlet of the chamber.

Among the various septic tanks available, spherical septic tanks are most popular because these systems can be made quickly, delivered rapidly to site, and placed in the ground easily.

Septic tank systems that are not functioning properly cause serious environmental and human health problems. Various laws have been passed to help prevent the problems the septic tanks can cause. It is essential to verify that the septic tank one installs in one?s property is in keeping with the legal requirements. Even though the septic tank is out of sight, it should not be out of mind.

Fish Tanks provides detailed information on Tanks, Fish Tanks, Dunk Tanks, Septic Tanks and more. Fish Tanks is affiliated with Tankless Electric Water Heaters.

The Septic Tank

2007-11-07T01:01:00.003-08:00

Septic tank is a very important thing for some home owners, the process that the water used in houses go through is not on the minds of most of the people using them, most people just turn the water on and off without thinking about what happens to the water and where the waste of these dirty water goes.

The systems that humans invented to deal with water waste are very complicated and efficient, but in some places water still needs to be collected and disposed in other ways, the septic tank is one of the things you should use when not linked to a regular drainage system.

Some places use septic tanks, mostly remote or rural places use it, do not be mistaken by the fact that so many people live in the cities and the suburbs, there are still many places that need to use septic tanks and such appliances to maintain a normal way of life, and if fact, once used well the septic tank is a very useful thing indeed, one that can serve a house for a good many years.

Septic tanks collect the water used by the house, the tank is located near the house and can be different size, some of the septic tanks are very big and some are smaller for smaller properties or houses that do not have a lot of people living in it. The septic tank holds all the waste the house produces and holds it in different spots, while some of the solids are held in the bottom of the septic tank they are there for some time until they disappear because of normal decomposing, the process does not happen for the liquids that are collected din the tank since the whole thing needs to be pumped anyway.

The important thing about a septic tank is that it is strong and durable, that the quality of the collecting and holding of the waste will be good and that it will able you to maintain normal life and regular water use as long as you se a good pumping service, a good septic tank will be serviced and will last for many years without needing any attention from the home owner, this means that quality septic tanks will allow a regular life just like any other home in any city or other place, without really feeling that it is a septic tank that collects the waste and not a drainage system.

The one thing that home owners need to take care of is that there is a good pumping service that will take care of their septic tank on regular basis, the people who run the pumping services are septic tank experts and will make sure that the whole water disposal service is not causing any trouble to anyone living in the house, once you got a quality septic tank and a good pumping service you will not think about the waste water any more, just like almost every else does not.

The Septic Tank

2007-11-07T01:01:00.001-08:00

Septic Tank Maintenance Secrets

2007-11-05T22:36:00.000-08:00

Septic Tank Maintenance Secrets

When you buy a car, you are given an owner's manual with instructions on how to care for your car. Septic tanks can cost as much or more than a car, unfortunately nobody gives you a manual when they are installed. Some people don't even know they have a septic tank! As a result, many septic systems fail unnecessarily.

The Price for Failure is Steep The price for failure is steep in two way. More than 1200 people in the US die each year from contaminated water, and failing septic systems are a leading source of waterborne disease outbreaks in the country today. In a 2000 EPA report, 31 states listed septic systems as their second greatest potential source of groundwater contamination. Septic system replacement is also very expensive, with costs often running from $5,000 to $20,000 or more. Fortunately, there are some highly effective, ineffective steps you can take to eliminate this problem. Before discussing solutions, let's look at why septic systems fail.

Septic tank maintenance is actually pretty easy to understand. When a system fails, the tank itself doesn't fail- the drainfield soil fails. In most cases the soil fails when it gets plugged up with solids and won't allow liquid to pass through it. For example, it can get plugged with solids from the tank if the tank hasn't been pumped, or with lint from a washing machine. Now for your solutions:

1. Use a washing machine filter.

Did you know that washing machines are a leading cause of septic system failure? The primary culprit is lint generated by washing machines, which clogs the soil in drain fields. Did you know that a typical family washing machine produces enough lint each year to carpet and entire living room floor! Lint screens and nylon traps found in hardware stores trap 5% or less of these particles. Because they are so light and small, the lint particles do not settle out in the septic tank. Instead, they stay in suspension and are flushed out to the drain field, where they plug up the pores of the soil bed.

To compound the problem, much of our clothing is now manufactured with synthetic materials such as polyester and nylon. These substances are not biodegradable, and will not break down in a septic system. Instead, they accumulate and plug the soil. Once these materials enter the soil, there is no way to remove them.

The good news is that lint can be prevented from entering the septic system through the use of a reusable, inline filter which attaches to your washing machine discharge hose. The filter, called the Filtrol 160, retails for $139.95.

2. Avoid Excessive Water Use You can also damage your septic system by doing a large number of laundry loads in a short period of time. In standard septic systems, solid materials settle in the tank, while effluent flows out into the ground. If you put more water into the system than it is built to handle, the high volume of water will flood your system, and can also stir up and flush solids out of the tank into the drain field (in fact, septic pumpers use water from their hoses to help break up solids in your tank before pumping them out). A typical washing machine can use up to 60 gallons of water per wash load. On a heavy day you can easily put 400, 500 or 600 gallons of water through the system in a few hours. The solution is to spread out your water use. Do one or two loads of laundry per day, rather than 10-12 loads on Saturday morning. Water softeners can also damage your system by putting too much water through the septic system. These devices can put several hundred gallons of water down the drain every week, water that is not contaminated and does not need to go through the treatment process.

There are a couple solutions to this problem. You can upgrade your softener with a newer efficient model that uses less water and regenerates on demand, instead of a timer system that regenerates whether you use water or not. You can also install a mini septic system for your water softener.

3. Prevent Solids from Leaving the Tank First of all, you should get your tank pumped on a regular basis to prevent excessive accumulation of solids in the tank. Under normal conditions, you should have the tank inspected and pumped every 1-3 years. Very important: tanks should be pumped and inspected through the manhole cover, not the inspection pipe. Your septic contractor should also install an effluent filter in the exit baffle of the tank. Effluent filters stop the larger solids from getting out to the drainfield. They are cleaned out every few years when you have your tank pumped. They are usually only about $80. Effluent filters are cheap insurance and along with a washing machine filter, one of the best things you can do to protect your system.

4. Use of Household Cleaning Products Excessive use of these products can contribute to septic system failure. If you do over 5 loads a week containing bleach, problems could arise. Avoid powdered detergents as they contain plastic fillers that can plug up your lines and drain field. Also, be careful with harsh automatic toilet bowl cleaners, which have put quite a few systems out of commission.

5. Should I Use a Separate System for My Washing Machine? Some people say you should use a separate system for your washing machine, called a laundry interceptor. However, this is not necessary and in fact undesirable. Washing machines should discharge into the regular system because it actually works better than discharging into its own system. In order to work, septic systems require bacteria colonies which break down biodegradable matter. These bacteria require "food" which is found in our wastewater, but not in detergent. Without "food" these bacteria colonies die out and the system fails. Many people who have installed these systems have found this out the hard way. A research project conducted in several east coast states utilized some rather high tech systems for washing machine discharge and many began failing in as little as eight months.

Septic Tank Maintenance Tips:

Do: divert surface runoff water from roofs, patios, driveways and other areas away from your drainfield. Have your septic tank pumped regularly. It should also be inspected for leaks, cracks and to make sure the exit baffle is in place. Install lint and effluent filters. Spread out your laundry loads. Compost your garbage or put it in the trash

Don't: Use a garbage disposal. These appliances normally double the amount of solids added to the tank! Flush sanitary napkins, disposable diapers or other non-biodegradable products into your system. Dump solvents, oils, paint thinners, disinfectants, pesticides or poisons down the drain as they can disrupt the treatment process and contaminate the groundwater. Dig in your drainfield or build anything over it. Drive over your drainfield or compact the soil in any way. Plant trees or shrubbery close to the septic system, because the roots can get in the lines and plug them. Grass is the only thing that should be planted on or near a drainfield.

If Your System Fails In quite a few cases, a tune-up can fix your system and you can avoid the high costs of replacing the system. This tuneup includes properly pumping the tank, cleaning (jetting) the drainfield lines, and installing washing machine and effluent filters. If these measures are not sufficient, some failed systems can be rejuvenated by fracturing the soil. This process utilizes a hollow tube inserted into the soil, then a 300 pound blast or air is injected into the soil creating thousands of tiny fissures. These fissures allow the drainfield to drain, creating an oxygen atmosphere and the aerobic bacterial colonies to repopulate. Aerobic bacteria, which require oxygen, typically live in the top 26 inches of the drainfield and process waste much more quickly than anaerobic bacteria. This process can be performed in a matter of hours with no digging or damage to the yard. One company which performs this service is Terralift International (http://www.terraliftinternational.com).

If you have a clay soil which has become plugged due to sodium from wastewater binding with the clay, Septic Seep can help. These product releases sodium bonded clays and reopens soil, restoring passages air and water. It also has the benefit of dispersing greases and scums that clog the soil.

Corey is the owner of The Laundry Alternative, a company which specializes in unique, eco-friendly laundry and septic tank products. His website can be found at http://www.laundry-alternative.com

How Exactly Do Septic Tanks Work?

2007-11-05T22:35:00.000-08:00

A sewerage drain field and a septic tank make up a small scale sewage treatment system. A septic tank is basically a rectangular shaped underground receptacle for wastewater. It is watertight, made of concrete, and consists of tanks that are divided into chambers. The first chamber has twice the volume as the second and the majority of the organic solid matter, referred to as sludge, gets settled here. The second chamber further purifies the wastewater.

The septic tank collects wastewater from toilets, showers, sinks, etc. Due to the absence of a current the sludge quickly settles down to the tank floor. Anaerobic bacterial digestive activity on the sludge leads to the generation of methane and carbon dioxide; the sludge is stabilized and does not rot anymore. Particles of stabilized sludge stay settled, some may float to the top as scum.

A septic tank should be constructed such that there is maximum contact time with the microorganisms so as to enable swifter digestion of the sludge. This is achieved by placing the inlet, overflow, and outlet diagonal to each other and by making the streams flow in vertically placed pipes.

The semi-purified water moves to the second chamber via the overflows that are constructed such that the upward motion of water prevents larger particles from flowing into the second chamber. The feeding, digestion, and settlement of organic matter continues in the second chamber. The retention time in the second chamber is half that of the first chamber because of its size and the fact that the amount of organic matter to treat is less. The outlet is constructed in the diagonal corner to the overflow.

The treated wastewater is directed to a drain field, also known as a seepage field, where any impurities that still exist get decomposed naturally, the water is taken up by the plant root system or it may even become a part of the groundwater. The large sized drainage field is required if the soil is not very porous. A septic system can be made to work entirely by using gravitational forces; at some places, however, a pump may be required to overcome topographical limitations.

The rate of sludge generation in septic tanks is around 0.05 cubic yards every year for an individual. Septic tanks need to be emptied every few years so that there is enough reaction space for the microorganisms to attack the wastewater and for the sludge to settle.

The septic tank may be emptied every 5-7 years depending upon the amount of wastewater it processes. The tank is emptied using an exhauster truck manned by trained personnel. The sludge that is sucked into the exhauster truck is released into public waste water treatment plants, sanitary landfills, or sludge drying beds.

Properly digested sludge can be used as a natural fertilizer; this is possible only if no fresh wastewater is added to the tank for at least one week.

The design of the septic tank should be such that the wastewater always flows in its designated path and no short circuits in the water flow occur. T-pipe-connectors with inflow and outflow openings under the water level should be used for inlet, overflow, and outlet pipes. This prevents the floating scum from clogging the pipes. A grease trap should be provided for the wastewater inflow pipe.

Scott Leahy recommends you visit The Laundry Alternative for more information on septic tanks.

Preventing Septic Tank System problems.

2007-11-04T21:24:00.000-08:00

OnePreventing Septic Tank System problems.

The septic system in the average home, with two baths and three occupants will process over 85,000 gallons of wastewater annually.

All of this wastewater passes through the septic tank, and into the drain field, where bacteria in the soil purifies the waste.

PROBLEM 1
Sodium in ordinary detergents, soaps, household cleaners, and water softeners causes clay particles in the soils to chemically bond.

PROBLEM 2 Grease and organic matter form a tar-like layer called the biomat. When the biomat grows too thick a waterproof barrier develops and absorption stops.

When soil absorption stops, soils flood. Standing water may be seen on the surface of the drain field. Water may back up into the tank and even into household plumbing. This is often the first sign of soil failure in your septic system.

SEPTIC SEEP
can solve both of these problems!
Before you spend a lot of money replacing an expensive drain field, try Septic Seep. Septic Seep is easy to apply to your septic system.

For normal working septic systems: Use 1/2 gallon every 6 months applied through the toilet, sink drain or convenient drain near the septic tank.

For sluggish septic systems: Use 1/2 gallon for the first treatment, then use 2 cupfuls (16oz.) per week for the next 4 weeks, then use 1 cup (8oz.) per week.

Cesspools and seepage pits: Use 1/2 gallon for the first treatment, then 1 cup (8oz.) every 2 weeks per pit.

Restoring Failed Drain Fields: In actual field experience, failed drain fields have been restored by applying Septic Seep in greater quantities. Good results have been obtained by applying 4 gallons directly to the drain field soil as a shock treatment.

http://www.a1-septic-systems-4u.info/septictanksystem.html

Septic Tanks - Danger Signs In A Rural Home

2007-11-02T23:03:00.000-07:00

Most rural homes are not connected to a mains sewage system. These homes rely on a self-contained sewage treatment plant called a septic tank.

If you have a septic tank, or are considering the purchase of a home with one, there are life-saving facts you need to know about septic tanks.

A septic tank takes the sewage from the house, the solids settle out and grease floats to the top. Between the two layers is a clear watery layer that is piped away to an absorption area where it is allowed to percolate away, through the soil. Soil bacteria break down any nutrients before the sewage reaches the water bearing rocks, or any streams.

Septic tanks are usually buried in the ground. There are three main types, all of which cause different concerns.

Steel tanks rust, especially when buried in the ground. A steel septic tank can be so corroded that it can lead to someone walking over it falling through and into the tank. The hapless person is suffocated by the methane generated in the tank, or drowns.

Concrete tanks may be damaged internally, leading to permanent and expensive to rectify damage to the absorption drain-field.

The worst tanks are those built from concrete blocks on site. Sometimes the blocks are just laid and not cemented together. Even if they are cemented together years of attack from acidic sewage will dissolve the mortar. These tanks can collapse without warning and probably fail to meet local planning and environmental protection regulations.

How do you tell if your septic tank has problems?
If there are ANY areas of sunken ground around it STAY AWAY. Call in a contractor immediately. If you step on these areas you could fall through, into the septic tank and die. These are signs that your septic tank has partially collapsed.

Check for signs of solid sewage material in the drain-field area. If the drain-field has been contaminated because the septic tank has not been pumped out regularly, this can be very expensive to rectify.

If you are buying a home with a septic tank, you should insist on the tank being pumped out and an investigation by a septic tank contractor carried out. It is not possible to examine a septic tank properly while it is full.

You may have to pay for a contractor to give you a report, but this will be a tiny amount compared to the cost of any necessary remedial work

Loreno Lepe has a background in the construction industries. Read more articles here. For more information check out Ladders and Water Contamination.

Dangers Of Septic Tank Odor

2007-11-02T23:02:00.000-07:00

Septic tank odor can be a sign of things having gone wrong with your septic tank. They can mean anything from a simple problem like vents that need repairs to a major issue like seepage around the septic tank. That could mean overflow for a failing system or the need to pump the septic tank. No matter what the cause septic tank odor is not a welcome sign.

When you have a septic tank system you should also have roof vents. These vents allow the pressure to equalize; this stops the toilets and sinks in the house form making strange noises as the waters flow out to the septic tank. If the vents get clogged there can be a back up problem that will definitely cause septic tank odor. This is easily remedied by cleaning out the vents. Sometimes the vents are not clogged, but there are odors still coming out. This tends to happen more often in the evenings and can be helped by putting a filter on the vent. These are easily available at your local hardware store or though companies that sell septic tanks. They are usually carbon based and will clear the odor problem.

But what of septic tank odor that is a sign of a more serious problem? This must be acted on immediately. The first thing to consider is when was the last time you had the septic system pumped. If you can’t recall then it’s been way too long and your system may be overflowing into the septic bed and that is what you smell. Call the service company to come and empty the septic tank. At the same time they’ll do an inspection for you to determine if there is any other problem. A crack in the tank could be the culprit and require a new septic tank to be installed. They’ll check everything and let you know what they find.

Whatever needs to be done to correct septic tank odor should be acted on quickly. Overflow or seepage waste not only smells but also is unhealthy for you, your family, your pets and the plants around your septic system. If you have a septic, you rely totally on it to treat your household sewage and that means you must be certain it always works at its peak. Next time, don’t let it go too long before you have it pumped again.

If you would like to learn more about septic tank odor in the home, then please visit our septic tank information website.

Septic Tanks: An Overview

2007-11-01T22:50:00.000-07:00

A septic tank is a large, underground, watertight container, typically about 9 feet long, 4-5 feet wide and 5 feet tall that is connected to the home's sewer line. While typically designed with a 1,000-gallon liquid capacity, the size of the tank is legally determined by the number of bedrooms in the home. (Septic tanks come under the legal supervision of counties in Montana.) Septic tanks may be rectangular or cylindrical and may be made of concrete, fiberglass or polyethylene.

Raw waste water from the bathroom, kitchen and laundry room flows into the tank where the solids separate from the liquid. Light solids, such as soap suds and fat, float to the top and form a scum layer. This layer remains on top and gradually thickens until you have the tank cleaned. The liquid waste goes into the drainfield, while the heavier solids settle to the bottom of the tank where they are gradually decomposed by bacteria. But some non-decomposed solids remain, forming a sludge layer that eventually must be pumped out.

Septic tanks may have one or two compartments. Two-compartment tanks do a better job of settling solids and are required in some areas for new installations. Tees or baffles at the tank's inlet pipe slow the incoming wastes and reduce disturbance of the settled sludge. A tee or baffle at the outlet keeps the solids or scum in the tank. All tanks should have accessible covers for checking the condition of the baffles and for pumping both compartments.

The Drainfield: Further treatment of wastewater occurs in the soil beneath the drainfield. The drainfield consists of long underground perforated pipes or tiles connected to the septic tank. The network of pipes is laid in gravel-filled trenches (2-3 feet wide), or beds (over 3 feet wide) in the soil. Liquid waste or effluent flows out of the tank and is evenly distributed into the soil through the piping system. The soil below the drain-field provides the final treatment and disposal of the septic tank effluent. After the effluent has passed into the soil, most of it percolates downward and outward, eventually entering the groundwater. A small percentage is taken up by plants through their roots, or evaporates from the soil.

The soil filters the effluent as it passes through the pore spaces. Chemical and biological processes treat the effluent before it reaches groundwater, or a restrictive layer, such as hardpan, bedrock, or clay soils. These processes work best where the soil is somewhat dry and permeable, and contains plenty of oxygen for several feet below the drain field. The size and type of drainfield depends on the estimated daily wastewater flow and soil conditions.

Tips for using your septic system:

-Even a properly designed and installed septic system cannot treat wastewater if the tank is not used and maintained properly. Here are a few tips for installing and using your septic system:
-For future maintenance and to avoid deep root planting and other damaging activities in the drain-field area, make an accurate diagram showing the location of your
tank, drainfield and replacement area.
-Keep a record of pumping, inspection, and other maintenance. Include name, address and phone numbers for installers and pumpers.
-To simplify tank access for inspection and maintenance, install a watertight concrete riser over the septic tank.
-The area over the drainfield should be left undisturbed, with only a mowed grass cover. Roots from nearby trees or shrubs may clog and damage your drain lines.

Scott Byers is a major contributor to My Septic Tank Info as well as many other websites. Visit us to find out more about septic tanks.

Contaminants of Septic Tanks and Where They End Up

2007-10-31T22:38:00.001-07:00

The typical sources of waste water entering a septic system are toilets (approximately 38%), laundry (25%), showers/baths (22%) and sinks/other (15%). Therefore, the potential contaminants must all be introduced into the system from one of these sources. The principal contaminant-type of concern is microbiological (pathogenic bacteria and viruses).

Soils which are very permeable (have a rapid percolation rate), also have a very small capacity to absorb effluent from the leach field and this capacity may be quickly exceeded if the system is not designed to take this into account. Not allowing for soils with little capacity to absorb moisture is a prime reason groundwater contamination occurs, because pollutants tend to move rapidly through the soil with little chance for decomposition.

The typical leach field will be perpetually wet (remember that several hundred gallons of liquid a day enter the tank and thus the field). This moisture encourages the growth of a "slime mat" composed of a variety of microscopic plants (algae) and animals (bacteria, etc.). This slime mat is the final clarifier of the waste water, pulling out left-over nutrients for their own use. They will also decompose, to varying degrees, certain synthetic organic chemicals such as some pesticides and solvents.

Many environmental factors (rainfall, soil moisture, temperature and pH, and availability of organic material in the soil) influence the movement and fate of microbes from the septic system through the soil to groundwater. Once out of the French drains in the leach field, pathogenic bacteria will have to compete for food with soil microbes and the microbes in the slime mat underlying the leach field.

Phosphorous, a contaminant introduced from many laundry detergents, typically is not a groundwater contamination problem because it is readily taken up by iron, aluminum and calcium naturally occurring in the soil. Urea is converted by the septic system flora into nitrite, nitrate and ammonium. Nitrate may be a groundwater contaminant particularly in soils which are very permeable. Nitrate moves readily through most soils dissolved in water.

Metals pose interesting problems. Possible contaminants include lead (from lead water pipes or lead solder- on water pipes), arsenic (found as a contaminant in phosphate detergents), iron, tin, zinc, copper and cadmium. They are not typically a concern in septic systems.

Movement of many organic contaminants such as solvents, cleaners, degreasers and pesticides, through soils is not well understood. There is certainly the possibility for organics, such as solvents, to move with water through the soil to groundwater. Also possible are adsorption onto soil, decomposition by soil microbes or uptake by microbes or plants. The environmental fate of most pesticides has been closely examined, but not from the prospective of subsurface introduction via a septic system.

Scott Byers is a major contributor to My Septic Tank Info as well as many other websites. Visit us to find out more about septic tanks.

Septic Tank Basics

2007-10-29T01:46:00.001-07:00

Septic tanks are a necessity for many who live in rural areas, and newly developed areas that don't yet have sewer systems in place. This article will attempt to inform you of the basics to give you a better understanding of what they are and what is required to maintain them.

A septic tank is a concrete, plastic, or fiberglass tank placed under ground with lines running from the septic tank that are called leach lines, these lines take away the excess water and deposit it under ground to drain thru the rocks and other under ground material to future purify the waste water once it leaves the tank. The septic tank will have more than one chamber. The first chamber is larger than the second, and is where most of the solids known as sludge, settle. The second somewhat smaller chamber is where the waste water is further purified. A septic tank is used in areas where no city sewers are available. They are used the same as a sewer system to dispose of waste water from bathrooms, showers and all other drains in the home. Anaerobic bacterial digestive activity on the sludge breaks it down; once this happens the sludge becomes stabilized and does not rot anymore. The somewhat purified water then moves to the second chamber. The digestion and settlement of the organic matter continues. The time in the second chamber is less than the first. This is where the waste water leaves the tank and is directed to the drain fields where any impurities that remain get decomposed naturally.

Some septic systems use a pump to help move the water depending on the way the land lays around the septic tank. After several years, in most cases 5 to7, the septic tank will have to be pumped to remove any sludge remaining so there is enough space to allow the digestive system to work as designed. The waste water that is pumped from the tank is released into waste treatment plants or sludge drying beds.

Maintenance of a septic system is very important and is not that hard to understand. If a system fails, the tank is most times not the problem. Usually the drain lines become plugged because the soil gets full of solids and the water does not move through it. This can be from several reasons; the tank could need to be pumped or many times the problem could be lint from a washing machine. This happens occasionally, and can be a real headache trying to correct. Most lint does not settle to the tank bottom and remains in suspension to be carried out into the drain field where over time will clog the soil. However, there is a solution. An inline filter may be used to capture lint and other items. Then only filter replacement is required to get your system back into operation.

Many times a large family will do several loads of laundry in a short period of time and flood the standard septic system. The solution here is to spread out the washing with only one or two loads a day. There are other things to consider in the maintenance of a septic tank system. If one is in your future be sure to stop by our website to learn more, and try to be on hand when the system is installed so you will have some idea how it all works.

Learn how to install, clean and maintain your septic tank system at http://septictanks.home-lawn-garden.com

Septic Tank and Septic System Maintenance

2007-10-26T22:58:00.000-07:00

If you are using septic tank instead of sewer connection, you need to properly maintain and care for it. You may not like the sound but you need to keep your septic tank well-maintained.

Proper landscaping is one crucial element in the upkeep of the septic system. When constructing your septic tank, make sure that the soil absorption area is far from rainwater drainage or downspouts. Make sure that it is not underneath your garage and areas where you will put heavy equipment. Divert the water coming from other means away from the septic tank drainfield. Do not construct your septic tank near a tree or areas where soil erosion can easily occur. Roots from the trees can get through and damage your septic tank.

Dispose chemicals and other liquid materials properly, this is one key reason for failure of septic system, many septic tanks have failed because of lack of attention to the materials disposed in it. Gasoline, paint thinners, motor oil, varnish, and other chemicals that contain active substances can ruin your septic tank walls and can cause hazard to groundwater as well. Make sure you dispose them properly and away from your septic tank system. Also, grease can easily clog in your septic tank so make sure you steer away from disposing them in your toilet.

Differentiate the toilet from garbage cans always, if you own a septic tank you know that you will need to take care with all your garbage and waste, even if it means that you will need to inform any visitor in your house about it. Cigarette butts and filters facial tissues, paper towels, coffee grounds, sanitary napkins, disposable diapers, tampons, cat litter, and other solid waste must be disposed in your garbage bins and not on your toilet. They clog to your septic tank easily.

Cleaning products are also a potential problem, heavy duty cleaners sometimes do their work all too well and cause other problems, you should make sure that your cleaning product is safe to use and that it may kill significant bacteria but can prolong the decomposition of solid waste. Use them properly.

Do not flush left over foods

Left over foods can decompose in time when flushed to your septic tank, food left at the drainage can nonetheless clog your drainage and cause serious trouble. Keep your leftovers on separate disposal container. This will extent the service of your septic tank.

Conserve water

Lowering your water consumption can help maintain a proper-functioning septic tank. Use your dishwasher only if it is full; reduce your water level when washing small amount of laundry; use aerators or flow reducer nozzles to conserve water, check for water leaks on your faucet and repair if necessary; and use a displacer to reduce the amount of water flushed on your toilet.

Septic tanks and Septic systems are used in places that don’t have a direct access to the sewer system, there are new and very advanced models of septic systems for the home, learn more about Fiberglass Septic Tanks at http://septictank.advice-tips.com

Advantages of Fiberglass Septic Tanks Over Concrete Septic Tanks

2007-10-25T22:50:00.000-07:00

If you currently have a concrete septic tank, there will likely come a time when it deteriorates to the point that is must be replaced. Although you could replace it with another concrete tank, there are other options which are generally considered to be superior. One of the best options available today is a fiberglass septic tank.

One advantage that fiberglass septic tanks have over concrete tanks is that they are lighter and easier to install, and no heavy equipment is needed to transport them. This can be very helpful in areas which are harder to access or if weather conditions are less than ideal.

Fiberglass septic tanks also will generally last longer than concrete septic tanks. One reason for this is that they are unaffected by sewer gases and are therefore less prone to deterioration.

If you have trees around the area where your septic tank will be installed than it would be advantageous to you to know that unlike some concrete septic tanks, fiberglass models cannot be penetrated and damaged by roots. This kind of damage would be inconvenient and costly to repair.

If your fiberglass tank does become damaged, however, it should be easier to repair than a concrete tank would be. This is especially true if the tank is located in an area which is difficult to access with heavy equipment.

When choosing a replacement septic tank, you should give fiberglass models serious consideration. Fiberglass septic tanks are a great option if you want a hassle free tank that will last you for many years to come.

If you enjoyed the article and would like to learn more about a fiberglass septic tank then be sure to visit us at MySepticTankInfo.com

Septic Failing?

2007-10-25T00:19:00.000-07:00

You are going about your daily routine -- taking a shower, using the bathroom, making breakfast, using the garbage disposal etc. You notice that the plumbing is moving a little bit slower than usual -- you may even begin to notice a foul smell coming from the drains - then it happens. After a brief stop to the restroom you notice the garbage disposal, toilet and other items have made their way into the shower floor!

In a panic, you realize that the septic system is full and you can't remember the last time (if ever) you had the septic tank pumped. You pick up the yellow pages and dial a septic company to come and pump the tank. You are relieved to see the shower has drained and that your plumbing nightmare is over -- or so you think!

You go about your life and forget about the septic nightmare you just experienced. You get back to life and your daily routine and it happens again. There in the shower is that familiar sludge! Yuck. What is happening?

While this is an extremely stressful it is all to common. In the desert southwest of Tucson, Arizona we typically begin to see leach lines fail at about 25 years. Your area might be a little different but most leach fields begin to fail for lack of care.

What are leaching fields exactly? Well, the leach fields are underground gravel beds that receive all of the fluids from the septic tank. Fluid runs to a distribution box and then to these gravel beds. After a number of years tree roots, or sediment begins to clog the gravel beds and perforated pipe. Eventually these lines become so completely stopped up that the liquid has nowhere to go but back into the tank, back up the drain pipe and into the lowest level of your home.

So, what do you do about this?

A number of companies on the web will attempt to sell you chemical products that they claim will repair your trouble. In my opinion you are wasting your money. Once the leach fields are in this sort of shape you will most likely need to consider replacing the leach fields.

If you are handy -- and extremely brave, you could attempt to resolve this on your own, but you should be warned that this is a nasty job with lots of smells and disgusting sludge. If you can get over the smells and a little mess then it's time to get started.

Rent a backhoe from your local equipment yard and begin digging at the outlet side of the tank. Once you have uncovered the outlet pipe, cut the pipe with a pvc saw. If you have clay pipe I think it's just easier to break off the clay pipe completely and insert a new solid PVC or SDR35 drain pipe. Once you have inserted the new pipe into the tank you can mortar it in.

Now, contact the local septic tank manufacturer and ask for a concrete distribution box and lay the box level a few inches below the outlet pipe. You now have a place from which to start your trenches. Now, begin to dig your trenches at 3' to 4' below the distribution box. You will want to make your trenches to the original plan in order to install the same amount of leach area.

Now, fill the trenches with 3/4' to 1' gravel and lay your perforated pipes level throughout the trenches. Backfill with at least 6" of gravel over the pipe and cover with a soil seperator.

Now, you are ready to backfill!

I have given you the very basics but I think you can get the idea. It's not rocket science but you want to make sure you talk with your local Department of Environmental Quality before starting your work. In some cases you will be required to scrap all of this and hookup to the city sewer system if they have expanded service to your area.

If you are not up for this work (not for most people) call on a licensed septic installer and get your 3 estimates. Make sure you ask about what kind of condition they will leave the area when they are done. If you want to save a little money you can take care of the clean up yourself.

I hope this helped in some way. Good luck to you!

David Goodwin
Tucson Septic Systems
520-406-3871
http://www.tucsonseptics.com

What is a Septic Tank System?

2007-10-22T02:55:00.000-07:00

If you live in a city or town you probably take your local municipal sewer system for granted. If you are moving out of said city or town to a more rural setting chances are you will need to have a septic tank system. In simple terms this means that all your waste water and sewage waste is treated right on your property instead of flowing down to the local waste water treatment plant. While this may not sound very sanitary there is nothing to worry about because septic tanks have been in use for many years. In fact nearly 25% of all homes in the U.S. use septic tank systems.

A septic tank system is a very simple structure, but for all its simplicity it is very efficient at what it does. The tank itself can be anywhere from one thousand gallons or higher and is usually placed a good distance away from the house. The main sewer pipe from the house is attached to one end of the septic tank while another pipe exits the far side and is buried in what is called the leech field.

The liquid and solid waste enters the first chamber in septic tank through the pipe connected to your house. The solids are trapped in this first chamber and are broken down by anaerobic bacteria. This reduces the amount of solid waste in the septic system allowing the liquid wastes to flow into the second chamber which then flows out the end pipe and into the leech or septic field. In most cases this is all accomplished with the help of gravity as we all know that poop flow downhill. In some cases the septic tank cannot be placed downhill from the house so a pump will need to be used in order for the system to work properly.

The liquid waste that flows into the leech field is relatively benign and will create a nutrient rich growing area. Any plants growing over it will thrive and many septic fields can be located just by finding the patch of land that is greener then the surrounding area.

As efficient as a septic tank system is there will always be solid waste that is not fully decomposed. This will eventually fill up the septic tank and require that you contact a septic tank cleaning service to pump out your system. Worst case would be to have this done every year but most systems can go up to two years before needing to be cleaned out. Properly taken care of a septic tank system will do its job efficiently with few problems to worry about.

Do you want to learn more about septic tank systems? Then visit Septic Tank Resources by Clicking Here.

The Importance of a Septic Inspection

2007-10-19T22:35:00.001-07:00

Buying a home in Texas? This might mean that you’re buying one that has a septic system. As part of the home inspection process, I always recommend that the buyers order a septic inspection from a licensed septic servicing company early in the option period of the contract.

A septic system inspection isn’t inexpensive, but it can prevent future headaches. The price may be anywhere from $400 to $750 depending on the type and the size of the system. The more expensive inspection is for aerobic septic systems.

There are several types of inspections that a septic company can do. A walk-over is a very simple inspection and really doesn’t tell you much. For about $250, an inspector will open many faucets in the house to flood the septic system. When the inspector is certain that the system has water flowing from through the septic tank to the drain field, he walks over the drain field to see if there is any visual evidence of sewage at the surface.

If something is discovered about the septic system that isn’t in good condition, the buyers can get an estimate of what it will cost to make repairs. This can then be used to negotiate the contract or you can walk away from the sale.

If the septic system is close enough to a body of water, an authority determined by the state may require an inspection so that the new owner can obtain a license to operate the system. A Buyer’s Agent should be able to assist buyers with this in addition to the regular inspection.

Sam Chapman is a REALTOR® licensed in the state of Texas who has lived and worked in the Austin area for 20 years. Sam and his team can help with purchases of waterfront homes, downtown condos, land and homes in all parts of Austin. Visit Sam’s Austin real estate website.

Septic Systems - A Short Story

2007-10-17T02:35:00.000-07:00

What would inspire me to write about septic systems? Maybe it's part in parcel with my fascination with composting and recycling? Maybe I'm just a garbage hound at heart! No - seriously, it's more that my travels as a home inspector have led me to focus on these delightful systems. I don't think I'll ever opt for a career in septic inspection, but I have gained a basic understanding of what constitutes a normal, functioning sewage disposal system.

Installing a private septic for a rural home includes soil tests, site inspections and considerable excavation work. Because of the design considerations and the amount of digging required, you probably wouldn't want to build your own; but to maintain it properly, you should know how it operates. Waste is piped out of the house into one side of a cement box called a septic tank, where bacteria break it down into solids (sludge), liquid (effluent), and scum. The sludge sinks to the bottom, the scum floats to the top, and the effluent flows into the other side, and then out through perforated pipes (drainage tile) buried in a leaching bed of loose gravel (also known as the septic field).

"Sewage and The Law!"

Government regulations specifically prohibit any renovations or additions to a home which are likely to affect the operation or effectiveness of a sewage system. If you're on a septic, adding a bedroom to your house (even without adding a bathroom) might mean having to increase the size of your tank and field. The regulations further state that any construction or alteration of a septic requires a Certificate of Approval issued by the Ministry or department responsible.

If you have questions about the care and operation of your septic system, call your Municipal Office, Health Department, Environment Canada, or any licensed sewage contractor listed in the Yellow Pages.

There's no hard and fast rule for pumping intervals, but an inspection and pump-out every third year are recommended. Don't allow meat by-products or harsh chemicals to enter your septic, and avoid the use of commercial tank cleaners or treatments. Don't plant trees on the field, and never drive over it!

By the way, greener grass over the septic is NOT usually a good sign!

Visit the RotoRooter website for more info about plumbing, sewage, and septic systems.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

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Septic Systems: The Inside Story

2007-10-10T23:00:00.000-07:00

Two Components

Class 4 septic systems are divided into two components, the septic tank and the septic field or leaching bed. Waste is piped out of the house into the septic tank, which is essentially a water clarification tank, in which anaerobic bacteria break the waste down into solids (sludge), liquid effluent, and scum.

Septic System

The solids settle to the bottom, the scum floats to the top and the liquid effluent flows through an outlet pipe into a distribution chamber, where it is directed to the septic field. The septic field is an effluent water disposal system, where the liquid is channeled through perforated pipes to different parts of a field of loose gravel.

Septic Tank

Materials that initially float in the scum layer are kept out of the drainage sytem by an outflow tee or baffle. If the tank is not pumped regularly, the level of solids can rise, and if it approaches the level of the outflow tee, scum and solids can proceed out into the drainage system, clogging the pipes and gravel - and eventually preventing the absorption of the water by the surrounding earth.

A Class 5 septic system is a holding tank for the storage of sewage at the site where it is produced. A typical holding tank system is comprised of a single compartment tank with a pump-out stack and an audible or visual warning device to alert the homeowner when the tank requires emptying. A holding tank is costly to operate, places restrictions of the owner, and is dependent on Class 7 (hauled) sewage system for waste collection and disposal.

A property serviced by a holding tank system requires an agreement registered on title to notify current and future owners of the servicing restrictions on the property.

Care and Maintenance

With proper care and maintenance, your septic tank and field should provide many years of trouble-free service. There are, however, some important steps to follow to help you maintain the proper operation of your sewage disposal system.

The Honey Wagon!

The septic tank in a residential system should be inspected at least once every two years for sludge buildup. The tank should be pumped by a licensed septic tank pumping contractor when necessary. Under normal use a septic tank should have its contents removed every two to three years.

The use of starters, bacterial feeds or cleaners in a septic system is normally not necessary.

The final grade (top soil) over the field should not be altered after it has been installed and inspected, and should be kept grassed after installation. Shrubs, trees or gardens should not be established over the septic field.

Discharge from evestough drains and sump pumps should not be directed into or over a septic field, and lawn sprinkler systems must not be located within this area.

Helpful Hints

Limiting excessive amounts of water in a short time can help reduce disruption of the septic process. You may want to consider the following water use reduction practices:

* Install water saving shower heads, sink aerators, and low-flush toilets.

* Use dishwashers and washing machines only for full loads, and stagger the loads through the week.

* Don't run water continuously when shaving, brushing teeth, rinsing dishes or veggies.

* A container of water in the fridge prevents the need to run water continuously for a cold drink.

* The installation of garbage grinders, large volume hot tubs or spas are not recommended unless the septic system has been sized to accomodate their use.

* The use of biodegradable products is highly recommended. Disposal of non-biodegradeable products such as condoms, feminine hygiene products, plastics, dental floss, etc. is strongly discouraged.

If you have questions regarding the care and maintenance of your septic system, consult your contractor or the Environmental Protection Division of your local Health Department.

The standards for private sewage systems are prescribed in Ontario Regulation 358/90, under the Enviromental Protection Act, and the Guidelines established by Ministry of Environment, and requirements of your local munipality or township.

General Guidelines for Purchasers

* If the system is 5-7 years old and has never been pumped it is unlikely that there are serious problems.

* If there is no record of the system having been pumped but the owner has a vague recollection of pumping the system at some time in the distant past, figure that it has never been pumped.

* If the system is over 10 years old and has never been pumped, it is possible that there has been some damage to the septic field, and if it’s not been pumped for over 15 years it is quite likely.

* The only way to make an accurate determination of the system is to have a licensed contractor or engineering firm perform a tank, distribution chamber and field inspection, and possibly soils sampling.

* Flushing dye through the system looks good but will only indicate systems that are already seriouslyclogged, in which case there should already be more obvious signs.

* Flushing dye may not indicate serious defects or indicate systems that are close to failure but still functional.

* If you are on a septic system, adding a bedroom, even without adding a bathroom, may mean having to increase the size of the tank and drainage field.

Visit the RotoRooter website for more info about plumbing, sewage, and septic systems.

Septic Systems 101 for Home Buyers

2007-10-09T22:29:00.001-07:00

If you’re a city dweller who is looking for a home in the suburbs, it’s likely that you’re looking at homes with septic for the first time. This situation tends to make buyers nervous. It needn’t.

Let’s take an overview of what a simple septic system is, how it’s maintained, and what you can do if you’re buying a home that uses one. A septic system is a self-contained system for disposing of sewerage. They’re frequently found in rural and suburban areas that do not have public sewerage systems. The system one sees most often is a holding tank in which enzyme and bacterial action decomposes the waste material and buried lines in a drainage field use soil to strain out what remains.

Septic permits are usually issued specifying the number of bedrooms a house may have that is to be built on the lot for which the permit is being issued. How well the soil percolates (how well water drains through the soil) on the lot is taken into account when issuing the permit. It typically costs between $6,000 and $10,000 to install a conventional system in the part of the country I live in. Systems are usually adequate for the size of the house because of the permit system.

When a system and the demands of a household are in balance, it can be literally years between times any maintenance is needed. Some jurisdictions require that they be pumped periodically. There are companies which make a specialty of this. In my area it costs about $200 to have a septic tank pumped.

Home Buyer Precautions

There are a number of things a homebuyer can do when buying a home with a septic system to minimize the possibility of having a problem. You can make your contract offer subject to a septic inspection and pumping. You can ask the seller to sign an affidavit stating that to the best of his knowledge the permit was issued for the number of bedrooms the home has, or, alternatively, you can check at the courthouse yourself. Just call and ask what department handles the permits, then call that department and ask about archived information.

Water should not stand for hours after a heavy rain on property with a septic system. There should never be any unpleasant odor associated with a septic system.

Alternative Systems

What we’ve been talking about is a simple conventional septic tank and drain field. It used to be virtually impossible to install a septic system where the soil does not drain well, or where the water table is high. Clay soils don’t drain well. High water tables are often encountered near the ocean, near marshy areas, and in areas near large bodies of water. Some pretty amazing systems which can handle problem areas have been designed in recent years.

I was recently talking to a builder friend of mine who is building a new home for his own family. The soil on their property drains very poorly. He has done some research and has contracted out having an alternative system installed. He got three bids which ranged from $18,000 to $60,000. After talking to the manufacturer, he accepted the low bid. It looks like the finished job will come in right at $20,000 and the contractor is following the procedure recommended by the manufacturer.

I’ve seen very few re-sales of properties using these super-duper systems-on-steroids, but I predict they’ll start turning up fairly soon. My builder friend says he could build a house on a rock using the best new systems. It sounds like we have some interesting developments to look forward to, doesn’t it?

Raynor James is with http://www.fsboamerica.org - providing FSBO homes for sale by owner. Visit our "sell my home" page at http://www.fsboamerica.org/seller.cfm to list and sell your home for free for one month. Visit http://www.fsboamerica.org/buyer.cfm to see homes for sale by owner.

Effects Of Water Softener Discharge on Septic Systems

2007-10-07T22:49:00.001-07:00

There are over 20 million households in the United States currently using on-site septic systems, and that number appears to be growing. We get many questions from our customers as to what effect (if any) water softener discharge has on a these systems. With such a wide range of information and opinions available, we felt that it was appropriate to examine some of the studies on this topic, and try to accurately present an overview of current understanding.

The Septic System and Water Softening Process

Septic system function is very straightforward. Your homes plumbing is piped into a in-ground storage tank. When wastewater enters this tank, the heavier solids settle to the bottom. Bacteria present in the storage tank digest the solids, breaking it down to a liquid. After this process is complete, relatively clear water is discharged from the primary tank into a second holding tank or distribution box. Water then re-enters the surrounding soil through a drainage field consisting of perforated underground piping.

The water softening process is accomplished by a chemical cation exchange that replaces the calcium and magnesium in your water with a equivalent number of sodium or potassium ions. During the softening process, your household water passes through the resin bed, and the magnesium and calcium contained in the water are removed. A given sized resin bed has a fixed capacity to remove hardness before it needs to be regenerated to full capacity in order to continue to provide softened water (for example, one cubic foot of resin has the ability to remove 32,000 grains of hardness from your water). When the resin bed is nearing exhaustion, the control valve washes the resin bed, and draws salt containing solution from the brine tank through the resin. As the salt contacts the resin bed, the process of ion exchange occurs, and the magnesium and calcium (hardness) that was collected in the bed during operation is washed to drain. After a final rinse to remove the excess salt, the resin bed is again ready to provide softened water.

The concern of discharging water softeners into an on-site septic system arises out of a belief that sodium salts used by water softeners during the regeneration stage – or the increased amount of water entering into the system – may be harmful and possibly cause septic systems to fail. Although there is no scientific data available that supports harmful effects, there have been many investigations into the potential for problems to occur.

The Effect of Sodium Salt on Septic Systems

Common knowledge supports that higher levels of sodium salt can have a direct impact on bacterial life forms. For instance, most bacteria usually found in fresh water ecosystems would be unable to live in a high salinity environment like an ocean. For this reason, concern was generated that septic systems that rely so heavily on bacterial action may be effected by high concentrations of sodium.

These concerns seem to be unwarranted. First, a typical residential sized water softener discharges between 40 and 70 gallons of water per regeneration. Through much of the regeneration process, fresh water is discharged, containing no salt at all, so the total concentration of salt is very dilute. However, during some stages of regeneration, the sodium concentration can reach as high a 5,000 to 10,000 ppm for brief periods of time.

To see if this level of sodium effected microorganisms typically found in aerobic on-site septic systems, a study was performed that exposed these microbes to a worst case scenario of 10,000 ppm brine solution. The study concluded that “there were no statistically significant differences in the metabolic activity of the microbial community”, and that it was “unlikely that failures in domestic water treatment system are the result of exposure to the brine from home water softeners.” (1)

Other studies indicate that the effect of putting softened water into septic system can actually be beneficial. There is a very low amount of sodium contained in softened water. For every grain of hardness removed, approximately 8 ppm (parts per million) of sodium is added. Although some naturally occurring water sources have very high sodium levels, softened water normally has a slightly elevated sodium level vs. untreated hard water. While this concentration is normally insignificant at typical hardness levels, these higher sodium levels are more in the optimal range for septic system bacterial growth, and can promote bacterial development.(2,7)

The Effect of Increased Water Volume from Water Softeners on Septic Systems While the volume of water discharged by a water softener during the regeneration process will vary depending on water pressure, pipe diameter, and softener design, water softeners typically use 40 to 70 gallons of water during regeneration. Questions have been raised as to what effect this increased volume of water (hydraulic load) may have on septic system performance. Did the flow rate and volume of water softener entering the system during water softener regeneration adversely effect the normal settling process, and allow solids to enter the drain field?

Investigations by NSF International determined that the additional volume of water due to softener regeneration is not sufficient to cause any harm to septic tank systems. In fact, water softener regeneration flow rate and volume is lower than the typical discharge from an automatic washing machine.(3) Further, old style “time clock” based water softeners regenerated as set on a calendar basis, normally one to two times per week - the newer generation of metered (on demand) water softeners measure household water consumption, and only regenerate as needed – this further reduces the amount of water discharged into the septic system.

The Effect of Water Softener Salt Discharge on Percolation in Septic Drain Fields

There has been some anecdotal evidence that sodium added to septic systems by a water softener may have negative effects on the ability for the drain field soil to percolate properly.

Many studies have been performed to investigate this issue (2,4,6), and seem to indicate that water softener regeneration discharge does not interfere with drain field percolation, but may actually improve percolation in finely textured soils. This may be due to a higher calcium concentration found in softener regeneration discharge. When this “calcium rich” water enters the drain field, it sometimes increased the porosity of the soil (dependent on the type of soil present), improving the percolation process. To further support this finding, gypsum, another calcium rich material, has long been used for this same purpose.

Conclusions and Recommendations

The results of our review are corroborated by a fact sheet published by the Environmental Protection Agency(5), that points out the following:

a) High concentrations of calcium and magnesium in the softener backwash water have no deleterious effect on the biological function occurring in the septic tank and may, in some cases, be helpful.

b) The additional volume of wastewater generated is added slowly to the wastewater stream, and does not cause any hydraulic overload problems.

c) Soil structure in the soil absorption field is positively affected by the calcium and magnesium ions in water softener effluent.

Based on a detailed evaluation of information and studies performed in this area to date, we conclude that water softener regeneration discharge does not negatively impact common on-site aerobic septic systems. Slightly elevated levels of sodium in regeneration discharge do not seem to effect septic system microorganisms, and may indeed benefit the septic process.

Other matters seem to play a much more important role in proper septic tank function. You should always minimize the amount of household cleaners that enter the waste stream. Whenever possible, reduce the use of soap and harsh chemical cleaners, and consider “natural” products containing low levels of phosphates. If you already have a water softener installed, remember that you can reduce the amount of soap use substantially – by as much as 50% to 75% - soap no longer has to work as hard to remove the minerals already removed by a water softener. Avoid using a garbage disposal with an on-site septic, as minimizing these types of organic wastes will reduce the load on the system. And finally, reduce when possible the amount of water flowing into the system from showers, baths, washing machines and dishwashers.

Work in this area is on-going, and a symposium discussing this issue is scheduled for March, 2006 in Chicago. A joint task force has been established between the Water Quality Association (WQA) and the National Onsite Waste Recycling Association (NOWRA) to plan and oversee joint activities and investigate any future findings. Failures of specific on-site septic systems will also be examined by this task force in order to determine the cause.

In conclusion, and after reviewing a range of scientific studies to gain a present-day understanding of this issue, it appears that owners of onsite septic systems can continue to enjoy the benefits that softened water provides, without concerns of system damage.

Bill Cordonna is president of CAI Technologies, based in the Philadelphia, PA USA area. CAI is composed of two groups, the Catalyst Technology Group and Water Treatment Group. Founded in 1991, the company is a global provider of environmental systems and consulting services for emission control and water treatment. Bill can be reached at 215-679-0470 or by email at cordonna@gmail.com

Alternatives to Flush Toilets and Septic Systsems - A Guide

2007-10-04T22:37:00.000-07:00

Information is available on the Internet for anyone researching alternatives to flush toilets, septic systems and hookup. Most of these products and technologies have been designed to address one or both of the two central problems presented by flushing away human waste.

Problem one is the use of water to flush waste. A single flush can use up to eight gallons of water, with a household of four people using more than two hundred gallons a day just to flush the toilet. Low-flow toilets address this problem by reducing the amount of water used and increasing the velocity of the flush. Waterless toilets eliminate the use of water altogether.

Problem two is when the ground cannot properly handle human waste at a given site or in a given watershed area that would otherwise use a septic system. Categories of products and systems addressing this problem include advanced treatment systems, microbiotic treatment systems, portable potties, holding tanks, lagoon systems, evaportranspiration systems, chemical toilets, digestor tanks, composting toilets, incinerating toilets and evaporative toilets.

Advanced treatment systems and microbiotic treatment systems improve on septic systems. With more treatment the waste is turned into a safer discharge, doing on site what waste treatment plants do for sewage.

Portable toilets/chemical toilets simply collect the waste in small tanks that have a substantial amount of liquid chemicals pre-loaded for the purpose of killing pathogens and controlling odor. The tanks are then pumped and trucked away for disposal or drained into septic systems or sewers. Variations of these are also used in RV's, boats, trains and planes.

Holding tanks are large tanks sunk into the ground. They are pumped periodically and are typically used for large public facilities such as rest stops and public parks.

Lagoon systems are ponds that collect sewage. Solids settle to the bottom of the pond and the liquids evaporate. These are widely used by small towns, campgrounds, resort areas, recreation areas and clusters of homes.

Evapotranspiration systems put liquid waste out on top of the ground for evaporation as well as absorption by trees, shrubs, plants and grass.

Digestor tanks collect and break down all waste and trash, producing both methane gas that can be used for fuel, and humus.

Composting toilets collect human waste and turn it into humus.

Incinerating toilets burn the waste, reducing it to a fine ash.

Evaporating toilets evaporate the waste. Depending on the methodology, these either reduce or eliminate the amount of waste needing to be pumped.

Three factors figure into the evaluation process of these products and systems. They are appropriateness, cost of system and cost of operating.

Is the system appropriate? Systems requiring water won't work where there is no running water or the ground won't perc. Systems not allowed by the local codes also get ruled out unless a waiver is granted. (In many cases a waiver will be granted.) Systems too small or too large for the anticipated usage should be ruled out. Systems that cannot stand up to local conditions, such as freezing, or to intermittent use such as seasonal cabins, would also be ruled out. For example, aerobic systems that spray treated waste need a constant supply of waste to treat because otherwise the bacteria they require will not multiply sufficiently to do the job.

Cost. In computing costs of a system be sure to factor in labor and any additional material required, such as sand or gravel. With septic systems the greater the amount of leech lines required, the greater willl be the amount of needed land and the cost of the leech lines.

Operational costs. How much power, chemicals and system maintenance will be required? Are there pumping and disposal fees? Do any components need periodic replacing? How long will the system last? Can the system be left unattended and unused for extended periods of time without needing servicing to start up and resume proper functioning? Does the system need to be winterized?

Most professionals in the sanitation industry will tell you that proper sanitation can be provided for any situation. But remember, the advice is no better than the information you provide. So, ask and seek, don't be bashful!

Losoncy is the president of Clean Up America, Inc., a company that markets a new type of evaporative sanitation system known as the Eloo. To learn more about Eloos go to

http://www.ElOO.US

DIY Bathroom Plumbing - Sewer and Septic Odor

2007-10-02T23:34:00.001-07:00

One common problem many homeowners run into is a sewer or septic odor in their bathroom. It may not be strong, it may not be constant, and it may only occur occasionally but it can be annoying and/or embarrassing when it does happen. Often the first inclination of the homeowner is to attempt to use a cleaner or deodorizing agent to stop the odor. While this may mask the problem, it usually will not address it. One important note for homeowners with septic systems - be careful of what chemicals you put down your drains - bleach and other cleaners can harm the normal operation of your septic system - check with a professional first.

Every drain in your home plumbing system should have a trap installed as part of the line. This is simply a curved section of pipe that "traps" water in it. If you look under your sink you should see an example of a trap. This will usually be a straight portion of pipe from the sink connected to a curved section that dips down and then back up before connecting to another horizontal section where the water exits. If you were to look inside your wall you would see a "T" section where the pipe goes down to your septic/sewer and up to an external vent.

The purpose of the trap is not to capture jewelry or other object dropped down the drain as many think but to hold water to prevent sewer/septic gas (and odor) from entering your bathroom. Every time you use the sink, shower, or tub some water collects in the trap blocking the gases and odor. If a component of your bathroom is not used frequently (i.e, the bath in a guest bathroom) then the water can evaporate and allow some gases to escape back into the bathroom. The good news is that this is very simple to prevent and/or fix. The solution: pour water down the drain. If you keep the trap full of water by running the water periodically you should not have any problems with odor. If this was the cause of your problem then the odor should dissipate in a short period of time once there is water in the trap.

Another possible cause for odor is the build up of slime, mold, hair, etc in the tailpiece (the portion of pipe that comes out the bottom of your sink) or overflow of your sink. The popup stopper in many bathroom sinks and tubs can also build up this "gunk". Use a small flashlight to check and see if you do have any buildup. If you do, clean the buildup out (remember to use a cleaner that is safe for your sewer or septic system) and see if that addresses your odor problem.

If the odor persists, it could indicate a more serious problem and you may want to consult a professional - they will have the tools to correctly diagnose and fix your problem.

Ray Breitenbach writes for Simple Home Repairs. Please visit for more information on how to perform you own basic home repairs.

Septic Systems: The Inside Story - Two Main Causes of System Failures

2007-09-30T22:41:00.000-07:00

How well do you understand septic systems? To see if you know enough about these systems, try to answer the following questions.

Septic Systems: Do you know...?

Do you know what a septic system is and how it works?

Do you know what causes septic systems to fail?

Do you know what it costs to replace a faulty septic system?

Do you know that a faulty septic system creates a potential health hazard?

Most people know very little about their septic system. This is understandable. In urban and suburban areas there are sewers to carry household waste to municipal wastewater treatment plants. In most rural areas however, septic systems provide the function of both sewers and treatment plants. All household waste is disposed of through the septic system. The proper operation of the septic systems is essential to health, property value, and the ecology.

TEN HELPFUL HINTS:

Hoisting a 1200 gallon septic tank from a truck.Following these hints, and observing the warning signs will help to ensure a long-lasting sewage system, avoid expensive repairs or replacements, and protect everyone's water supply.

1. Have the septic tank pumped out every two to three years. This will remove the accumulated sludge and scum which would other wise reach the tile field and cause blockage resulting in a malfunctioning sewage system and costly repairs. This is the single most effective means of ensuring a long-lasting sewage system.

2. It is always wise to practice water conservation.

3. Use soaps and detergents which are low in phosphates. Most automatic dishwashing detergents contain high concentrations of phosphates.

4. Do not flush hazardous chemicals such as paints, varnish, thinners, waste oil, pesticides, photographic solutions, etc.

5. Do not flush coffee grinds, dental floss, disposable diapers, kitty litter, sanitary napkins, tampons, cigarette butts, condoms, fat, grease or oil, paper towels, etc.

6. Commercial septic tank additives are not necessary and not recommended.

7. Do not allow vehicles including snow machines and ATV’s to park on or drive over your sewage system.

8. Divert roof drains, surface water, sump pumps and house footing drains away from the sewage system.

9. Sewage systems should have a good cover of grass, ventilation and sunlight. Trees and shrubs should not be planted over sewage systems. However, trees and shrubs planted between your system and a water course would be beneficial.

10. Be alert to these warning signs:

* Sewage surfacing over the tile field

* Sewage back-up in the house

* Mushy ground or greener grass

* Slow draining toilet or other drains

* Sewage odors

THE INSIDE STORYLowering a tank into place

Waste is piped out of the house into the first chamber of a concrete box called a septic tank.

Organic solid material floats to the surface and forms a layer of what is commonly called "scum." Bacteria in the septic tank biologically convert this material into liquid.

Inorganic or inert solid materials and the by-products of bacterial digestion sink to the bottom of the tank and form a layer commonly called "sludge."

Only fairly clear water should exist between the scum and sludge layers. This water fills the second chamber of the tank where it becomes even more clear. It is this clear water - and only this clear water - that should be allowed to over flow from the tank into the drainage tiles in the absorption area, commonly called "the field" or "the bed" or sometimes "leaching field."

Solid material overflowing into the soil absorption area should be avoided at all costs. It is this solids overflow which clogs soil pores and causes septic systems to fail.

"Two main factors cause solid materials to build up and overflow: Bacterial deficiency and lack of sludge removal."

Septic tank in place, ready to be connected to the house and the tile bed. Bacteria must be present in the septic tank to digest the organic solids. Normal household waste provides enough bacteria to digest the solids, unless any harm is done to the bacteria. Bacteria are very sensitive to environmental changes. Many home-care products used in most homes today will destroy bacteria. Check the labels of these products to see if they are "Septic Safe" or "Safe for use in septic systems."

A Pretty Good Rule: "Shock the pool, not the septic system!"

For more in-depth information about septic systems, their care and maintenance, including diagrams and illustrations - visit Homes A-Z in the Library.

Trusted Vacuum Equipment and Septic Systems

2007-09-28T02:20:00.000-07:00

A septic tank is a small scale sewage treatment system common in rural areas and small towns that have no connection to main sewage pipes. A septic system is a type of onsite sewage facility. Septic simply refers to the hazardous environment that develops in the tank and which decomposes the waste discharged into the septic tank.

Septic tanks can contain vacuum systems that feature industrial vacuum/pressure pumps. And some tanks are fitted with a heavy duty stainless steel portal shutoff, complete with stainless steel mesh cartridge type filter to insure protection of your valuable vacuum system. The units are designed to accept any or all components to meet the demanding requirements of liquid and semi-solid hazardous waste removal, transportation and disposal.

Why does the hazardous waste need to be transported? Because over time the waste that is not decomposed by the anaerobic digestion does build up. If it is not removed from the septic tank, the tank fills up and nondecomposed waste water overflows directly to the drainage field. Not only is this bad for your yard but it also can damage the environment.

I bet you’re wondering how often does the septic tank need to be emptied? This all depends on the volume of the tank relative to the usage. The bigger the family, the more usage it will get. The smaller the tank, the more often it will require emptying. In general it is rare for a septic tank system to require emptying more than once a year.

Septic truck companies and vacuum truck companies are hired to remove the hazardous waste that fills septic tanks. These tank trucks are referenced by their size or volume capacity. Large trucks typically have capacities ranging from 4000 to 9000 gallons, whereas a smaller truck might have a capacity of less than 3000 gallons. The truck uses a vacuum to clean several septic tanks in a neighborhood and then deposit the septic material to a collection site.

A normally operating and properly designed septic system is odor free and with an inspection and pumping of the septic tank periodically the tank itself should last for at least 50 years with little to no maintenance.

For information on septic truck solutions, contact Transway Systems Inc., an international manufacturer of industrial vehicles and septic tank pump trucks.