Friday, November 23, 2007

Installing a Septic System

When you are building a home and are not within range of your municipalities public sewer system, you will probably have to install a septic system.

What is a septic system? How does it work?

A septic system is an underground disposal system that accepts all of the effluent (waste) from your home and disposes of it in a very simple way.

Normally a concrete septic tank is installed (although in some areas you might have a need for plastic) to accept the waste from your home. One side of the tank receives the solid material and the other takes the liquids. This is done by a simple baffle installed between the two compartments.

As the liquid rises it finds the outlet side of the tank and flows into a distribution box. The distribution box is installed level, and as the liquid rises it finds the leach field pipes and flows evenly to the leaching fields.

The leaching fields can me as simple as beds of gravel with leach pipe placed over the gravel bed, or underground chamber systems. The water flows down the leaching pipes and drips into the gravel beds (normally 3 ft in depth, depending on the water table in your area).

While you will have to check with your local Department of Environmental Quality (or other such name), this is the basic idea of a septic system.

If you would like to take a photo tour of an actual septic installation, please visit http://www.tucsonseptics.com/septic_Installation.html

Tucson Septic Systems is licensed in Commercial and Residential Septic Installations.

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Tuesday, November 20, 2007

Proper Septic System Care and Maintenance


Proper Care and Feeding of a Septic System

How your septic system works and how to maintain it.

By Bruce Lunsford, Able Home Inspections Naples, Fort Myers, Cape Coral, Marco Island Florida

For an illustrated version of this article please visit my web site.

As a home inspector located in SW Florida, I deal regularly with septic systems. I can say without a doubt that at least 90% of homeowners have no idea how to care for septic systems. It is very rare for me to have a client that has even a basic understanding of how this critical system works, let alone how to maintain it. As a result of this lack of understanding thousands of systems needlessly fail every year. Basically a septic system is the preferred method for disposing of sewage when there is no city sewage hookup available.

As the title suggests a septic system is a common living breathing component of homes and as such, it has special needs. It is the only system that depends on live microorganisms to function properly. If properly designed and maintained, it is nearly a perfect system with little environmental impact. Unlike public sanitation, it does not require the dumping of millions of gallons of tainted water into public waterways. It cleans your waste water so effectively that it eventually returns to the water table where it is available for use again, as pure as the day it was originally pumped out.

Before we discuss how to care for this critical and expensive system, let's talk about how it works.

HOW IT WORKS

A typical septic system has 2 basic components and the pipes that interconnect them. Although there are many minor variations on these, most installed systems are pretty much the same, and the all work on the same principal. When there are variations in design, the primary reasons are poor soil permeability, limited space and high water tables.

The Septic Tank

The septic tank is the first stop in this private sewage treatment system. It is responsible for collecting and digesting the solid material in the drain lines, then sending the liquid (called effluent) out to the next component, the drainfield. It is absolutely critical that the solid materials do not leave the tank and enter the drainfield. Common residential sizes of the tank are in the 1,500 to 2,000 gallon range with the actual size determined by the number of bedrooms. The tank has a series of baffles or compartments that ensure the solids settle to the bottom and the floating scum layer stays on top of the water. Over time bacteria and other microorganisms digest the materials and reduce their bulk. The effluent then moves out to the Drainfield / Absorption Field.

Drainfield / Absorption Field

The drainfield rests on top of the absorption field and is little more than lengths of pipes with holes in them. The effluent enters these pipes and leaks out into the absorption field. The absorption field is simply a bed of effluent specially designed to allow the effluent to drain through it. The most common materials are gravel and sand. The size of the field is determined by the number of bedrooms in the home and the permeability of the soil. The soil provides filtration for the effluent and hosts additional bacteria and microorganisms that further clean the effluent. While a small amount of the effluent evaporates or is absorbed by plants, most of it eventually returns to the water table.

How to Care for Your System

Rule #1. Nothing goes down the drains that doesn't have to, especially if it isn't readily biodegradable. Sanitary napkins, washing out paint brushes, dumping mop water, and scraping partially eaten food into the disposal etc. should be avoided. I even recommend using paper towels to remove grease from pans prior to washing them. If you have to have a garbage disposal, use it sparingly. Things like grease and egg shells should never be put down the disposal because they don't easily break down. Starting an outdoor compost pile is always a great way to get rid of those organic items you wisely don't put into your septic system.

Rule #2. DO NOT use additives in your system. There are numerous additives available at hardware stores that claim to keep your system clean. I don't want to get into brand names, but you've seen the commercials on TV. "Simply add our product to your system once a month and keep it trouble free." This has been a source of controversy for some time, so the Federal Department of Health actually did a study on this and came to the conclusion that they most likely do no good, and are more likely to cause harm. If you wish to read the study, follow this link. http://www.doh.wa.gov/EHP/ts/WW/Septic-Additives-SFQ-Wint2002.pdf I won't bore you with the details of the study. I will however tell you that using these additives are absolutely not a substitute for proper routine maintenance.

Rule #3. This is the most important of all. Have your tank pumped out every 3 to 5 years, depending on age, size and usage. This is absolutely critical. Although the bacteria does a wonderful job of reducing your solid wastes, it cannot completely eliminate it. If the tank is not periodically pumped, this sludge eventually builds up high enough that it is forced to enter the drainfield. When that happens, you ruin the drainfield and you're looking at a new system which commonly costs in the $3,000 to $5,000 range. If you take nothing else away from this article, please remember to have your system pumped out every 3 to 5 years! If you do this, your system should last decades instead of years. If everything is done perfectly, your system could theoretically last indefinitely.

Rule #4. Keep trees out of the system. Tree roots can destroy the system so keep a healthy distance between trees and other large plants and your septic system.

The last bit of advice I can give is to be sure and get your septic system thoroughly inspected prior to purchasing your home. The last thing you want is to move in and find out a few weeks later that you have no operational sewage system. Imagine the inconvenience of not being able to flush your toilets or take a shower for a few weeks while a new system is installed. Not to mention the privilege of paying thousands of dollars for the new septic system, then getting to replace the sod in your yard.

Following these simple guidelines will help ensure you have a septic system that gives decades of trouble free service.This article is free to use as long as a link back is provided to the author.

Note: Bruce Lunsford has over 25 years of experience in inspecting, engineering and construction. Bruce has performed over 8,000 inspections to date and is a certified member of ASHI and FABI, the highest certifications available to inspectors. For additional information please visit his web page www.ableinspector.com

Bruce Lunsford is a full time home inspector located in SW Florida. Bruce has over 27 years of combined construction experience and can be reached through his web site at www.ableinspector.com Home Inspections Naples, Fort Myers, Cape Coral, Marco Island Florida

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Monday, November 19, 2007

The Value of a Septic System Inspection


Buying a home in Texas? This might mean that you're buying one that has a septic system. As part of the home inspection process, I always recommend that the buyers order a septic inspection from a licensed septic servicing company early in the option period of the contract.

A septic system inspection isn't inexpensive, but it can prevent future headaches. The price may be anywhere from $400 to $750 depending on the type and the size of the system. The more expensive inspection is for aerobic septic systems.

There are several types of inspections that a septic company can do. A walk-over is a very simple inspection and really doesn't tell you much. For about $250, an inspector will open many faucets in the house to flood the septic system. When the inspector is certain that the system has water flowing from through the septic tank to the drain field, he walks over the drain field to see if there is any visual evidence of sewage at the surface.

I recommend ordering a more detailed inspection, which usually takes about two hours. The inspector uncovers the tank lid or lids and then pump the tanks. After this has been done, the inspector checks the tank visually to make sure the structural integrity of the tank is good. If the septic system is an aerobic one, the inspector will run water through the entire system to test all valves, mechanical parts and the sprinkler heads.

If something is discovered about the septic system that isn't in good condition, the buyers can get an estimate of what it will cost to make repairs. This can then be used to negotiate the contract or you can walk away from the sale.

If the septic system is close enough to a body of water, an authority determined by the state may require an inspection so that the new owner can obtain a license to operate the system. A Buyer's Agent should be able to assist buyers with this in addition to the regular inspection.

Repair or replacement of a septic system can be very costly. This is exactly why I recommend that buyers order a full inspection. I would rather see them spend $500+ during the option period even if the pull the plug on the contract than $15,000+ later for repairs.

Sam Chapman is a REALTOR? in the Austin, TX area who specializes in Lake Travis real estate.

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Septic System Design Secrets


First and foremost, hire a good septic designer to do the necessary tests and drainfield design , BEFORE you design the house!!! Go out with them and tell them where you would like to situate the house, but let them give their input. Sometimes just moving the house a few feet in one direction will make the difference between a regular, gravity fed system and a more expensive pump system.

I had some friends that were going to build and I tried advising them on this, but wouldn't listen. The irony is, if they would have listened and moved the house about 10 feet to the west, they could have gone with a gravity fed system for about $3,500. As it turned out, they spent more than $8,000 because they put the house right where the drainfield should have gone.

Also, if they say you cannot go with a regular septic system design, ask them about ALL the different types of systems you may be able to go with and the advantages/disadvantages of each type. If they are pushing you toward one type of septic system design it may be because that is the only type of system they do. You may want to take your copy of the site/soil conditions (make sure to get a copy) and call/visit a few other contractors to get their opinion.

When you buy property and are going to put in a septic system, there are safeguards that are supposed to protect you. The way the process is supposed to work is, you, as the property owner, hire a septic designer to assess the site and design a system that will meet the needs of the home and will work with the existing site/soil conditions. They then present this plan to the local agency in charge of septic systems, usually the health or zoning office. They approve or disapprove the plan. Then a septic installer installs the system according to that plan. Then the building inspector comes to the site and inspects the system to make sure the system was installed properly (according to the plan).

This is the way it is supposed to work in theory...but it doesn't always go according to plan. The skill level of designers, installers and inspectors varies greatly from state to state. Some states, such as Massachusetts, are very progressive. They require the contractors and inspectors to be well trained and certified if they are going to be dealing with septic systems. They are also open to new technologies available to solve problem sites.

However there are areas where the contractors and the government inspectors are way behind the times. In some regions anyone that has a dump truck and a backhoe can dig a septic system. Some of the agencies will still allow systems to be installed that will be illegal in a few years when the local regulations catch up and are enacted. An example is the use of deep systems like cesspools and drywells. These systems have outlawed in most areas of the country but there are a few that still allow them today. What this means is, you can have a cesspool put in now, but in a few years the codes will change and you will have to put in a new system- at your own expense, of course.

The end result is that some of the systems going in are failures waiting to happen. This is why you as the homeowner must take an active role in the septic system design process.

When you know where you want to buy, talk to neighbors that have built in the area in the last few years and ask them what kind of system they installed (don't rely on what someone had a system installed 20 years ago- the codes have probably changed and there is a good chance that their type of system is no longer acceptable. Your local Board of Health can also be a valuable resource. They can not tell you who not to use because that is preventing someone from making a living, but they will often point out the better ones because they know a bad contractor putting in bad systems will make their job tougher.

You may also want to hire a contractor that can also do your other dirt work (the basement, footings, landscaping, etc). If you are using several different contractors the contractor that is digging your footings will often drive over the area where the septic system is supposed to go and damage it. If you have one doing it all they will protect the area when they are working.

Corey K. Tournet is the owner of The Laundry Alternative, a company which specializes in portable washing machines and septic tank care products. You can visit his website at http://www.laundry-alternative.com

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Sunday, November 18, 2007

What is an Aerobic Septic System?

OneWhat is an Aerobic Septic System?

Aerobic septic systems are used in situations where standard septic systems are not a viable option. In many cases, they are used to replace failing septic systems. Aerobic systems are similar to septic systems in that they both use natural processes to treat wastewater. But unlike septic (anaerobic) treatment, the aerobic treatment process requires
oxygen. There are two types of bacteria, anaerobic and aerobic.

Aerobic bacteria work much faster than anaerobic bacteria, which means they process septic tank waste more quickly. Aerobic treatment units use a mechanism to inject and circulate air inside the treatment tank, which accelerates or speeds up the treatment process. This mechanism requires electricity to operate. For this reason, aerobic systems cost more to operate and need more routine maintenance than most septic systems.

However, when properly operated and maintained, aerobic systems can provide a high quality wastewater treatment alternative to septic systems. They can also be used in some cases by owners of wooded lots, who don't want to clear enough land to install a traditional septic tank and drainfield.
 

http://www.a1-septic-systems-4u.info/aerobicsepticsystem.html

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Thursday, November 15, 2007

About The Fiberglass Septic Tank

 

To partially clarify and treat wastewater, a septic tank is used. It is a watertight container that is buried and used to be for separating grit and scum from the liquid.

Usually, a septic tank is made of fiberglass, polyethylene and concrete. Back then, redwood and steel were also used as material for septic tanks. But regulatory groups started to go against the use of steel and redwood so they now are not that the most widely used material for septic tanks.

For places that are can not be easily accessed by delivery trucks of concrete tanks, fiberglass septic tanks, which are lighter are more often used. Also, if a fiberglass septic tank has a good thick coating of resin, it will be more durable compared to concrete. This is because that thick resin can?t be easily degraded by the gases that the waste will produce.

So if your area can?t be accessed by delivery trucks, how do you look for the best fiberglass septic tank?

Considering the Size

To come up with an informed decision on what size of fiberglass septic tank will suit your needs, check the local regulations first regarding this matter. Then, consider the number of bathrooms in your house. Normally, a 1000-gallon septic tank will do well for a house with two bedrooms. For houses with three or four bedrooms, a 1,500-gallon septic tank will do.

One or Two Compartments?

There are two kinds of septic tanks depending on number of compartments ? one-compartment and two-compartment. Two-compartment septic tanks are more advised since they make it a lot easier to make solids settle.

Buying a House with a Septic Tank?

Getting a professional septic tank inspector will help you best in knowing whether the home you are about to acquire has a septic system that will be able to handle what you need it to handle.

Durability Check

One great way to see if the manufacturer swears true that the fiberglass septic tank he is selling is of great structural strength, check its warranty offer. Now if it is offering a 50-year warranty, Bingo! Also, look for additional materials that improve the durability of a fiberglass septic tank. FRP or fiberglass-reinforced polyester is one sample of these additives.

Septic tanks and Septic systems are used in places that don?t have a direct access to the sewer system, there are new and very advanced models of septic systems for the home, learn more about Septic Tanks at http://septictank.advice-tips.com

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Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Septic Tank Care And Maintenance Guide


When building a new house a connection to the sewer system is sometimes a problem, many home owners are left with a hard decision, and many choose to use a septic system, these septic tanks are reliable and efficient, but there are some things that you must remember and always practice if you have a septic tank, otherwise you might have problems with your system.

Proper landscaping

When constructing your septic system, make sure that the soil absorption area is far from rainwater drainage or downspouts. Make sure that it is not underneath your garage and areas where you will put heavy equipment. Divert the water coming from other means away from the septic tank drainfield. Do not construct your septic system near a tree or areas where soil erosion can easily occur. Roots from the trees can get through and damage your septic tank.

Dispose chemicals and other liquid materials properly

Gasoline, paint thinners, motor oil, varnish, and other chemicals that contain active substances can ruin your septic tank walls and can cause hazard to groundwater as well. Make sure you dispose them properly and away from your septic tank system. Also, grease can easily clog in your septic tank so make sure you steer away from disposing them in your toilet.

Differentiate the toilet from garbage cans.

Cigarette butts and filters facial tissues, paper towels, coffee grounds, sanitary napkins, disposable diapers, tampons, cat litter, and other solid waste must be disposed in your garbage bins and not on your toilet. They clog to your septic tank easily.

Proper maintenance

Builders would suggest constructing a septic system with 1,000-gallon capacity for a family of 4. This would last from 3 to 5 years of full time use before you notice that it is getting filled up. When it does, there are professional wastewater treating system services to help you pump out solids on your septic tank.

If there are damages to your tank, do not attempt to open it yourself. Do not enter your septic tank as well. There are bacteria and gases in your tank that can be fatal. Call a professional to make the necessary repairs.

Never use chemical or biological solutions in place of septic tank pumping system.

Upgrade your septic system, like your roof, doors, cabinets, driveway, ceilings, and furnace, your septic tank will need to get an upgrade and possibly a replacement in due time. Do not hesitate to do this. Advances in the latest system will tremendously improve your wastewater disposal system.

Taking proper care of your septic tank and regular maintenance of the septic system will result in a reliable system, one that is not so much different than any sewer system.

Septic tanks and Septic systems are used in places that dont have a direct access to the sewer system, learn more about Fiberglass Septic Tanks at http://septictank.advice-tips.com

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