Contaminants of Septic Tanks and Where They End Up

 

The typical sources of waste water entering a septic system are toilets (approximately 38%), laundry (25%), showers/baths (22%) and sinks/other (15%). Therefore, the potential contaminants must all be introduced into the system from one of these sources. The principal contaminant-type of concern is microbiological (pathogenic bacteria and viruses).

Soils which are very permeable (have a rapid percolation rate), also have a very small capacity to absorb effluent from the leach field and this capacity may be quickly exceeded if the system is not designed to take this into account. Not allowing for soils with little capacity to absorb moisture is a prime reason groundwater contamination occurs, because pollutants tend to move rapidly through the soil with little chance for decomposition.

The typical leach field will be perpetually wet (remember that several hundred gallons of liquid a day enter the tank and thus the field). This moisture encourages the growth of a "slime mat" composed of a variety of microscopic plants (algae) and animals (bacteria, etc.). This slime mat is the final clarifier of the waste water, pulling out left-over nutrients for their own use. They will also decompose, to varying degrees, certain synthetic organic chemicals such as some pesticides and solvents.

Many environmental factors (rainfall, soil moisture, temperature and pH, and availability of organic material in the soil) influence the movement and fate of microbes from the septic system through the soil to groundwater. Once out of the French drains in the leach field, pathogenic bacteria will have to compete for food with soil microbes and the microbes in the slime mat underlying the leach field.

Phosphorous, a contaminant introduced from many laundry detergents, typically is not a groundwater contamination problem because it is readily taken up by iron, aluminum and calcium naturally occurring in the soil. Urea is converted by the septic system flora into nitrite, nitrate and ammonium. Nitrate may be a groundwater contaminant particularly in soils which are very permeable. Nitrate moves readily through most soils dissolved in water.

Metals pose interesting problems. Possible contaminants include lead (from lead water pipes or lead solder- on water pipes), arsenic (found as a contaminant in phosphate detergents), iron, tin, zinc, copper and cadmium. They are not typically a concern in septic systems.

Movement of many organic contaminants such as solvents, cleaners, degreasers and pesticides, through soils is not well understood. There is certainly the possibility for organics, such as solvents, to move with water through the soil to groundwater. Also possible are adsorption onto soil, decomposition by soil microbes or uptake by microbes or plants. The environmental fate of most pesticides has been closely examined, but not from the prospective of subsurface introduction via a septic system.

Scott Byers is a major contributor to My Septic Tank Info as well as many other websites. Visit us to find out more about septic tanks.

Septic Tank Basics

 

Septic tanks are a necessity for many who live in rural areas, and newly developed areas that don't yet have sewer systems in place. This article will attempt to inform you of the basics to give you a better understanding of what they are and what is required to maintain them.

A septic tank is a concrete, plastic, or fiberglass tank placed under ground with lines running from the septic tank that are called leach lines, these lines take away the excess water and deposit it under ground to drain thru the rocks and other under ground material to future purify the waste water once it leaves the tank. The septic tank will have more than one chamber. The first chamber is larger than the second, and is where most of the solids known as sludge, settle. The second somewhat smaller chamber is where the waste water is further purified. A septic tank is used in areas where no city sewers are available. They are used the same as a sewer system to dispose of waste water from bathrooms, showers and all other drains in the home. Anaerobic bacterial digestive activity on the sludge breaks it down; once this happens the sludge becomes stabilized and does not rot anymore. The somewhat purified water then moves to the second chamber. The digestion and settlement of the organic matter continues. The time in the second chamber is less than the first. This is where the waste water leaves the tank and is directed to the drain fields where any impurities that remain get decomposed naturally.

Some septic systems use a pump to help move the water depending on the way the land lays around the septic tank. After several years, in most cases 5 to7, the septic tank will have to be pumped to remove any sludge remaining so there is enough space to allow the digestive system to work as designed. The waste water that is pumped from the tank is released into waste treatment plants or sludge drying beds.

Maintenance of a septic system is very important and is not that hard to understand. If a system fails, the tank is most times not the problem. Usually the drain lines become plugged because the soil gets full of solids and the water does not move through it. This can be from several reasons; the tank could need to be pumped or many times the problem could be lint from a washing machine. This happens occasionally, and can be a real headache trying to correct. Most lint does not settle to the tank bottom and remains in suspension to be carried out into the drain field where over time will clog the soil. However, there is a solution. An inline filter may be used to capture lint and other items. Then only filter replacement is required to get your system back into operation.

Many times a large family will do several loads of laundry in a short period of time and flood the standard septic system. The solution here is to spread out the washing with only one or two loads a day. There are other things to consider in the maintenance of a septic tank system. If one is in your future be sure to stop by our website to learn more, and try to be on hand when the system is installed so you will have some idea how it all works.

Learn how to install, clean and maintain your septic tank system at http://septictanks.home-lawn-garden.com

Septic Tank and Septic System Maintenance

If you are using septic tank instead of sewer connection, you need to properly maintain and care for it. You may not like the sound but you need to keep your septic tank well-maintained.

Proper landscaping is one crucial element in the upkeep of the septic system. When constructing your septic tank, make sure that the soil absorption area is far from rainwater drainage or downspouts. Make sure that it is not underneath your garage and areas where you will put heavy equipment. Divert the water coming from other means away from the septic tank drainfield. Do not construct your septic tank near a tree or areas where soil erosion can easily occur. Roots from the trees can get through and damage your septic tank.

Dispose chemicals and other liquid materials properly, this is one key reason for failure of septic system, many septic tanks have failed because of lack of attention to the materials disposed in it. Gasoline, paint thinners, motor oil, varnish, and other chemicals that contain active substances can ruin your septic tank walls and can cause hazard to groundwater as well. Make sure you dispose them properly and away from your septic tank system. Also, grease can easily clog in your septic tank so make sure you steer away from disposing them in your toilet.

Differentiate the toilet from garbage cans always, if you own a septic tank you know that you will need to take care with all your garbage and waste, even if it means that you will need to inform any visitor in your house about it. Cigarette butts and filters facial tissues, paper towels, coffee grounds, sanitary napkins, disposable diapers, tampons, cat litter, and other solid waste must be disposed in your garbage bins and not on your toilet. They clog to your septic tank easily.

Cleaning products are also a potential problem, heavy duty cleaners sometimes do their work all too well and cause other problems, you should make sure that your cleaning product is safe to use and that it may kill significant bacteria but can prolong the decomposition of solid waste. Use them properly.

Do not flush left over foods

Left over foods can decompose in time when flushed to your septic tank, food left at the drainage can nonetheless clog your drainage and cause serious trouble. Keep your leftovers on separate disposal container. This will extent the service of your septic tank.

Conserve water

Lowering your water consumption can help maintain a proper-functioning septic tank. Use your dishwasher only if it is full; reduce your water level when washing small amount of laundry; use aerators or flow reducer nozzles to conserve water, check for water leaks on your faucet and repair if necessary; and use a displacer to reduce the amount of water flushed on your toilet.

Septic tanks and Septic systems are used in places that don’t have a direct access to the sewer system, there are new and very advanced models of septic systems for the home, learn more about Fiberglass Septic Tanks at http://septictank.advice-tips.com

Advantages of Fiberglass Septic Tanks Over Concrete Septic Tanks

If you currently have a concrete septic tank, there will likely come a time when it deteriorates to the point that is must be replaced. Although you could replace it with another concrete tank, there are other options which are generally considered to be superior. One of the best options available today is a fiberglass septic tank.

One advantage that fiberglass septic tanks have over concrete tanks is that they are lighter and easier to install, and no heavy equipment is needed to transport them. This can be very helpful in areas which are harder to access or if weather conditions are less than ideal.

Fiberglass septic tanks also will generally last longer than concrete septic tanks. One reason for this is that they are unaffected by sewer gases and are therefore less prone to deterioration.

If you have trees around the area where your septic tank will be installed than it would be advantageous to you to know that unlike some concrete septic tanks, fiberglass models cannot be penetrated and damaged by roots. This kind of damage would be inconvenient and costly to repair.

If your fiberglass tank does become damaged, however, it should be easier to repair than a concrete tank would be. This is especially true if the tank is located in an area which is difficult to access with heavy equipment.

When choosing a replacement septic tank, you should give fiberglass models serious consideration. Fiberglass septic tanks are a great option if you want a hassle free tank that will last you for many years to come.

If you enjoyed the article and would like to learn more about a fiberglass septic tank then be sure to visit us at MySepticTankInfo.com

Septic Failing?

 

You are going about your daily routine -- taking a shower, using the bathroom, making breakfast, using the garbage disposal etc. You notice that the plumbing is moving a little bit slower than usual -- you may even begin to notice a foul smell coming from the drains - then it happens. After a brief stop to the restroom you notice the garbage disposal, toilet and other items have made their way into the shower floor!

In a panic, you realize that the septic system is full and you can't remember the last time (if ever) you had the septic tank pumped. You pick up the yellow pages and dial a septic company to come and pump the tank. You are relieved to see the shower has drained and that your plumbing nightmare is over -- or so you think!

You go about your life and forget about the septic nightmare you just experienced. You get back to life and your daily routine and it happens again. There in the shower is that familiar sludge! Yuck. What is happening?

While this is an extremely stressful it is all to common. In the desert southwest of Tucson, Arizona we typically begin to see leach lines fail at about 25 years. Your area might be a little different but most leach fields begin to fail for lack of care.

What are leaching fields exactly? Well, the leach fields are underground gravel beds that receive all of the fluids from the septic tank. Fluid runs to a distribution box and then to these gravel beds. After a number of years tree roots, or sediment begins to clog the gravel beds and perforated pipe. Eventually these lines become so completely stopped up that the liquid has nowhere to go but back into the tank, back up the drain pipe and into the lowest level of your home.

So, what do you do about this?

A number of companies on the web will attempt to sell you chemical products that they claim will repair your trouble. In my opinion you are wasting your money. Once the leach fields are in this sort of shape you will most likely need to consider replacing the leach fields.

If you are handy -- and extremely brave, you could attempt to resolve this on your own, but you should be warned that this is a nasty job with lots of smells and disgusting sludge. If you can get over the smells and a little mess then it's time to get started.

Rent a backhoe from your local equipment yard and begin digging at the outlet side of the tank. Once you have uncovered the outlet pipe, cut the pipe with a pvc saw. If you have clay pipe I think it's just easier to break off the clay pipe completely and insert a new solid PVC or SDR35 drain pipe. Once you have inserted the new pipe into the tank you can mortar it in.

Now, contact the local septic tank manufacturer and ask for a concrete distribution box and lay the box level a few inches below the outlet pipe. You now have a place from which to start your trenches. Now, begin to dig your trenches at 3' to 4' below the distribution box. You will want to make your trenches to the original plan in order to install the same amount of leach area.

Now, fill the trenches with 3/4' to 1' gravel and lay your perforated pipes level throughout the trenches. Backfill with at least 6" of gravel over the pipe and cover with a soil seperator.

Now, you are ready to backfill!

I have given you the very basics but I think you can get the idea. It's not rocket science but you want to make sure you talk with your local Department of Environmental Quality before starting your work. In some cases you will be required to scrap all of this and hookup to the city sewer system if they have expanded service to your area.

If you are not up for this work (not for most people) call on a licensed septic installer and get your 3 estimates. Make sure you ask about what kind of condition they will leave the area when they are done. If you want to save a little money you can take care of the clean up yourself.

I hope this helped in some way. Good luck to you!

David Goodwin
Tucson Septic Systems
520-406-3871
http://www.tucsonseptics.com

What is a Septic Tank System?

If you live in a city or town you probably take your local municipal sewer system for granted. If you are moving out of said city or town to a more rural setting chances are you will need to have a septic tank system. In simple terms this means that all your waste water and sewage waste is treated right on your property instead of flowing down to the local waste water treatment plant. While this may not sound very sanitary there is nothing to worry about because septic tanks have been in use for many years. In fact nearly 25% of all homes in the U.S. use septic tank systems.

A septic tank system is a very simple structure, but for all its simplicity it is very efficient at what it does. The tank itself can be anywhere from one thousand gallons or higher and is usually placed a good distance away from the house. The main sewer pipe from the house is attached to one end of the septic tank while another pipe exits the far side and is buried in what is called the leech field.

The liquid and solid waste enters the first chamber in septic tank through the pipe connected to your house. The solids are trapped in this first chamber and are broken down by anaerobic bacteria. This reduces the amount of solid waste in the septic system allowing the liquid wastes to flow into the second chamber which then flows out the end pipe and into the leech or septic field. In most cases this is all accomplished with the help of gravity as we all know that poop flow downhill. In some cases the septic tank cannot be placed downhill from the house so a pump will need to be used in order for the system to work properly.

The liquid waste that flows into the leech field is relatively benign and will create a nutrient rich growing area. Any plants growing over it will thrive and many septic fields can be located just by finding the patch of land that is greener then the surrounding area.

As efficient as a septic tank system is there will always be solid waste that is not fully decomposed. This will eventually fill up the septic tank and require that you contact a septic tank cleaning service to pump out your system. Worst case would be to have this done every year but most systems can go up to two years before needing to be cleaned out. Properly taken care of a septic tank system will do its job efficiently with few problems to worry about.

Do you want to learn more about septic tank systems? Then visit Septic Tank Resources by Clicking Here.

The Importance of a Septic Inspection

Buying a home in Texas? This might mean that you’re buying one that has a septic system. As part of the home inspection process, I always recommend that the buyers order a septic inspection from a licensed septic servicing company early in the option period of the contract.

A septic system inspection isn’t inexpensive, but it can prevent future headaches. The price may be anywhere from $400 to $750 depending on the type and the size of the system. The more expensive inspection is for aerobic septic systems.

There are several types of inspections that a septic company can do. A walk-over is a very simple inspection and really doesn’t tell you much. For about $250, an inspector will open many faucets in the house to flood the septic system. When the inspector is certain that the system has water flowing from through the septic tank to the drain field, he walks over the drain field to see if there is any visual evidence of sewage at the surface.

I recommend ordering a more detailed inspection, which usually takes about two hours. The inspector uncovers the tank lid or lids and then pump the tanks. After this has been done, the inspector checks the tank visually to make sure the structural integrity of the tank is good. If the septic system is an aerobic one, the inspector will run water through the entire system to test all valves, mechanical parts and the sprinkler heads.

If something is discovered about the septic system that isn’t in good condition, the buyers can get an estimate of what it will cost to make repairs. This can then be used to negotiate the contract or you can walk away from the sale.

If the septic system is close enough to a body of water, an authority determined by the state may require an inspection so that the new owner can obtain a license to operate the system. A Buyer’s Agent should be able to assist buyers with this in addition to the regular inspection.

Repair or replacement of a septic system can be very costly. This is exactly why I recommend that buyers order a full inspection. I would rather see them spend $500+ during the option period even if the pull the plug on the contract than $15,000+ later for repairs.

Sam Chapman is a REALTOR® licensed in the state of Texas who has lived and worked in the Austin area for 20 years. Sam and his team can help with purchases of waterfront homes, downtown condos, land and homes in all parts of Austin. Visit Sam’s Austin real estate website.

Septic Systems - A Short Story

What would inspire me to write about septic systems? Maybe it's part in parcel with my fascination with composting and recycling? Maybe I'm just a garbage hound at heart! No - seriously, it's more that my travels as a home inspector have led me to focus on these delightful systems. I don't think I'll ever opt for a career in septic inspection, but I have gained a basic understanding of what constitutes a normal, functioning sewage disposal system.

Installing a private septic for a rural home includes soil tests, site inspections and considerable excavation work. Because of the design considerations and the amount of digging required, you probably wouldn't want to build your own; but to maintain it properly, you should know how it operates. Waste is piped out of the house into one side of a cement box called a septic tank, where bacteria break it down into solids (sludge), liquid (effluent), and scum. The sludge sinks to the bottom, the scum floats to the top, and the effluent flows into the other side, and then out through perforated pipes (drainage tile) buried in a leaching bed of loose gravel (also known as the septic field).

"Sewage and The Law!"

Government regulations specifically prohibit any renovations or additions to a home which are likely to affect the operation or effectiveness of a sewage system. If you're on a septic, adding a bedroom to your house (even without adding a bathroom) might mean having to increase the size of your tank and field. The regulations further state that any construction or alteration of a septic requires a Certificate of Approval issued by the Ministry or department responsible.

If you have questions about the care and operation of your septic system, call your Municipal Office, Health Department, Environment Canada, or any licensed sewage contractor listed in the Yellow Pages.

There's no hard and fast rule for pumping intervals, but an inspection and pump-out every third year are recommended. Don't allow meat by-products or harsh chemicals to enter your septic, and avoid the use of commercial tank cleaners or treatments. Don't plant trees on the field, and never drive over it!

By the way, greener grass over the septic is NOT usually a good sign!

Visit the RotoRooter website for more info about plumbing, sewage, and septic systems.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

"The Home Reference Book"
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Septic Systems: The Inside Story

Two Components

Class 4 septic systems are divided into two components, the septic tank and the septic field or leaching bed. Waste is piped out of the house into the septic tank, which is essentially a water clarification tank, in which anaerobic bacteria break the waste down into solids (sludge), liquid effluent, and scum.

Septic System

The solids settle to the bottom, the scum floats to the top and the liquid effluent flows through an outlet pipe into a distribution chamber, where it is directed to the septic field. The septic field is an effluent water disposal system, where the liquid is channeled through perforated pipes to different parts of a field of loose gravel.

Septic Tank

Materials that initially float in the scum layer are kept out of the drainage sytem by an outflow tee or baffle. If the tank is not pumped regularly, the level of solids can rise, and if it approaches the level of the outflow tee, scum and solids can proceed out into the drainage system, clogging the pipes and gravel - and eventually preventing the absorption of the water by the surrounding earth.

A Class 5 septic system is a holding tank for the storage of sewage at the site where it is produced. A typical holding tank system is comprised of a single compartment tank with a pump-out stack and an audible or visual warning device to alert the homeowner when the tank requires emptying. A holding tank is costly to operate, places restrictions of the owner, and is dependent on Class 7 (hauled) sewage system for waste collection and disposal.

A property serviced by a holding tank system requires an agreement registered on title to notify current and future owners of the servicing restrictions on the property.

Care and Maintenance

With proper care and maintenance, your septic tank and field should provide many years of trouble-free service. There are, however, some important steps to follow to help you maintain the proper operation of your sewage disposal system.

The Honey Wagon!

The septic tank in a residential system should be inspected at least once every two years for sludge buildup. The tank should be pumped by a licensed septic tank pumping contractor when necessary. Under normal use a septic tank should have its contents removed every two to three years.

The use of starters, bacterial feeds or cleaners in a septic system is normally not necessary.

The final grade (top soil) over the field should not be altered after it has been installed and inspected, and should be kept grassed after installation. Shrubs, trees or gardens should not be established over the septic field.

Discharge from evestough drains and sump pumps should not be directed into or over a septic field, and lawn sprinkler systems must not be located within this area.

Helpful Hints

Limiting excessive amounts of water in a short time can help reduce disruption of the septic process. You may want to consider the following water use reduction practices:

* Install water saving shower heads, sink aerators, and low-flush toilets.

* Use dishwashers and washing machines only for full loads, and stagger the loads through the week.

* Don't run water continuously when shaving, brushing teeth, rinsing dishes or veggies.

* A container of water in the fridge prevents the need to run water continuously for a cold drink.

* The installation of garbage grinders, large volume hot tubs or spas are not recommended unless the septic system has been sized to accomodate their use.

* The use of biodegradable products is highly recommended. Disposal of non-biodegradeable products such as condoms, feminine hygiene products, plastics, dental floss, etc. is strongly discouraged.

If you have questions regarding the care and maintenance of your septic system, consult your contractor or the Environmental Protection Division of your local Health Department.

The standards for private sewage systems are prescribed in Ontario Regulation 358/90, under the Enviromental Protection Act, and the Guidelines established by Ministry of Environment, and requirements of your local munipality or township.

General Guidelines for Purchasers

* If the system is 5-7 years old and has never been pumped it is unlikely that there are serious problems.

* If there is no record of the system having been pumped but the owner has a vague recollection of pumping the system at some time in the distant past, figure that it has never been pumped.

* If the system is over 10 years old and has never been pumped, it is possible that there has been some damage to the septic field, and if it’s not been pumped for over 15 years it is quite likely.

* The only way to make an accurate determination of the system is to have a licensed contractor or engineering firm perform a tank, distribution chamber and field inspection, and possibly soils sampling.

* Flushing dye through the system looks good but will only indicate systems that are already seriouslyclogged, in which case there should already be more obvious signs.

* Flushing dye may not indicate serious defects or indicate systems that are close to failure but still functional.

* If you are on a septic system, adding a bedroom, even without adding a bathroom, may mean having to increase the size of the tank and drainage field.

Visit the RotoRooter website for more info about plumbing, sewage, and septic systems.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

"The Home Reference Book"
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!

Septic Systems 101 for Home Buyers

If you’re a city dweller who is looking for a home in the suburbs, it’s likely that you’re looking at homes with septic for the first time. This situation tends to make buyers nervous. It needn’t.

Let’s take an overview of what a simple septic system is, how it’s maintained, and what you can do if you’re buying a home that uses one. A septic system is a self-contained system for disposing of sewerage. They’re frequently found in rural and suburban areas that do not have public sewerage systems. The system one sees most often is a holding tank in which enzyme and bacterial action decomposes the waste material and buried lines in a drainage field use soil to strain out what remains.

Septic permits are usually issued specifying the number of bedrooms a house may have that is to be built on the lot for which the permit is being issued. How well the soil percolates (how well water drains through the soil) on the lot is taken into account when issuing the permit. It typically costs between $6,000 and $10,000 to install a conventional system in the part of the country I live in. Systems are usually adequate for the size of the house because of the permit system.

When a system and the demands of a household are in balance, it can be literally years between times any maintenance is needed. Some jurisdictions require that they be pumped periodically. There are companies which make a specialty of this. In my area it costs about $200 to have a septic tank pumped.

Home Buyer Precautions

There are a number of things a homebuyer can do when buying a home with a septic system to minimize the possibility of having a problem. You can make your contract offer subject to a septic inspection and pumping. You can ask the seller to sign an affidavit stating that to the best of his knowledge the permit was issued for the number of bedrooms the home has, or, alternatively, you can check at the courthouse yourself. Just call and ask what department handles the permits, then call that department and ask about archived information.

Water should not stand for hours after a heavy rain on property with a septic system. There should never be any unpleasant odor associated with a septic system.

Alternative Systems

What we’ve been talking about is a simple conventional septic tank and drain field. It used to be virtually impossible to install a septic system where the soil does not drain well, or where the water table is high. Clay soils don’t drain well. High water tables are often encountered near the ocean, near marshy areas, and in areas near large bodies of water. Some pretty amazing systems which can handle problem areas have been designed in recent years.

I was recently talking to a builder friend of mine who is building a new home for his own family. The soil on their property drains very poorly. He has done some research and has contracted out having an alternative system installed. He got three bids which ranged from $18,000 to $60,000. After talking to the manufacturer, he accepted the low bid. It looks like the finished job will come in right at $20,000 and the contractor is following the procedure recommended by the manufacturer.

I’ve seen very few re-sales of properties using these super-duper systems-on-steroids, but I predict they’ll start turning up fairly soon. My builder friend says he could build a house on a rock using the best new systems. It sounds like we have some interesting developments to look forward to, doesn’t it?

Raynor James is with http://www.fsboamerica.org - providing FSBO homes for sale by owner. Visit our "sell my home" page at http://www.fsboamerica.org/seller.cfm to list and sell your home for free for one month. Visit http://www.fsboamerica.org/buyer.cfm to see homes for sale by owner.

Effects Of Water Softener Discharge on Septic Systems

There are over 20 million households in the United States currently using on-site septic systems, and that number appears to be growing. We get many questions from our customers as to what effect (if any) water softener discharge has on a these systems. With such a wide range of information and opinions available, we felt that it was appropriate to examine some of the studies on this topic, and try to accurately present an overview of current understanding.

The Septic System and Water Softening Process

Septic system function is very straightforward. Your homes plumbing is piped into a in-ground storage tank. When wastewater enters this tank, the heavier solids settle to the bottom. Bacteria present in the storage tank digest the solids, breaking it down to a liquid. After this process is complete, relatively clear water is discharged from the primary tank into a second holding tank or distribution box. Water then re-enters the surrounding soil through a drainage field consisting of perforated underground piping.

The water softening process is accomplished by a chemical cation exchange that replaces the calcium and magnesium in your water with a equivalent number of sodium or potassium ions. During the softening process, your household water passes through the resin bed, and the magnesium and calcium contained in the water are removed. A given sized resin bed has a fixed capacity to remove hardness before it needs to be regenerated to full capacity in order to continue to provide softened water (for example, one cubic foot of resin has the ability to remove 32,000 grains of hardness from your water). When the resin bed is nearing exhaustion, the control valve washes the resin bed, and draws salt containing solution from the brine tank through the resin. As the salt contacts the resin bed, the process of ion exchange occurs, and the magnesium and calcium (hardness) that was collected in the bed during operation is washed to drain. After a final rinse to remove the excess salt, the resin bed is again ready to provide softened water.

The concern of discharging water softeners into an on-site septic system arises out of a belief that sodium salts used by water softeners during the regeneration stage – or the increased amount of water entering into the system – may be harmful and possibly cause septic systems to fail. Although there is no scientific data available that supports harmful effects, there have been many investigations into the potential for problems to occur.

The Effect of Sodium Salt on Septic Systems

Common knowledge supports that higher levels of sodium salt can have a direct impact on bacterial life forms. For instance, most bacteria usually found in fresh water ecosystems would be unable to live in a high salinity environment like an ocean. For this reason, concern was generated that septic systems that rely so heavily on bacterial action may be effected by high concentrations of sodium.

These concerns seem to be unwarranted. First, a typical residential sized water softener discharges between 40 and 70 gallons of water per regeneration. Through much of the regeneration process, fresh water is discharged, containing no salt at all, so the total concentration of salt is very dilute. However, during some stages of regeneration, the sodium concentration can reach as high a 5,000 to 10,000 ppm for brief periods of time.

To see if this level of sodium effected microorganisms typically found in aerobic on-site septic systems, a study was performed that exposed these microbes to a worst case scenario of 10,000 ppm brine solution. The study concluded that “there were no statistically significant differences in the metabolic activity of the microbial community”, and that it was “unlikely that failures in domestic water treatment system are the result of exposure to the brine from home water softeners.” (1)

Other studies indicate that the effect of putting softened water into septic system can actually be beneficial. There is a very low amount of sodium contained in softened water. For every grain of hardness removed, approximately 8 ppm (parts per million) of sodium is added. Although some naturally occurring water sources have very high sodium levels, softened water normally has a slightly elevated sodium level vs. untreated hard water. While this concentration is normally insignificant at typical hardness levels, these higher sodium levels are more in the optimal range for septic system bacterial growth, and can promote bacterial development.(2,7)

The Effect of Increased Water Volume from Water Softeners on Septic Systems While the volume of water discharged by a water softener during the regeneration process will vary depending on water pressure, pipe diameter, and softener design, water softeners typically use 40 to 70 gallons of water during regeneration. Questions have been raised as to what effect this increased volume of water (hydraulic load) may have on septic system performance. Did the flow rate and volume of water softener entering the system during water softener regeneration adversely effect the normal settling process, and allow solids to enter the drain field?

Investigations by NSF International determined that the additional volume of water due to softener regeneration is not sufficient to cause any harm to septic tank systems. In fact, water softener regeneration flow rate and volume is lower than the typical discharge from an automatic washing machine.(3) Further, old style “time clock” based water softeners regenerated as set on a calendar basis, normally one to two times per week - the newer generation of metered (on demand) water softeners measure household water consumption, and only regenerate as needed – this further reduces the amount of water discharged into the septic system.

The Effect of Water Softener Salt Discharge on Percolation in Septic Drain Fields

There has been some anecdotal evidence that sodium added to septic systems by a water softener may have negative effects on the ability for the drain field soil to percolate properly.

Many studies have been performed to investigate this issue (2,4,6), and seem to indicate that water softener regeneration discharge does not interfere with drain field percolation, but may actually improve percolation in finely textured soils. This may be due to a higher calcium concentration found in softener regeneration discharge. When this “calcium rich” water enters the drain field, it sometimes increased the porosity of the soil (dependent on the type of soil present), improving the percolation process. To further support this finding, gypsum, another calcium rich material, has long been used for this same purpose.

Conclusions and Recommendations

The results of our review are corroborated by a fact sheet published by the Environmental Protection Agency(5), that points out the following:

a) High concentrations of calcium and magnesium in the softener backwash water have no deleterious effect on the biological function occurring in the septic tank and may, in some cases, be helpful.

b) The additional volume of wastewater generated is added slowly to the wastewater stream, and does not cause any hydraulic overload problems.

c) Soil structure in the soil absorption field is positively affected by the calcium and magnesium ions in water softener effluent.

Based on a detailed evaluation of information and studies performed in this area to date, we conclude that water softener regeneration discharge does not negatively impact common on-site aerobic septic systems. Slightly elevated levels of sodium in regeneration discharge do not seem to effect septic system microorganisms, and may indeed benefit the septic process.

Other matters seem to play a much more important role in proper septic tank function. You should always minimize the amount of household cleaners that enter the waste stream. Whenever possible, reduce the use of soap and harsh chemical cleaners, and consider “natural” products containing low levels of phosphates. If you already have a water softener installed, remember that you can reduce the amount of soap use substantially – by as much as 50% to 75% - soap no longer has to work as hard to remove the minerals already removed by a water softener. Avoid using a garbage disposal with an on-site septic, as minimizing these types of organic wastes will reduce the load on the system. And finally, reduce when possible the amount of water flowing into the system from showers, baths, washing machines and dishwashers.

Work in this area is on-going, and a symposium discussing this issue is scheduled for March, 2006 in Chicago. A joint task force has been established between the Water Quality Association (WQA) and the National Onsite Waste Recycling Association (NOWRA) to plan and oversee joint activities and investigate any future findings. Failures of specific on-site septic systems will also be examined by this task force in order to determine the cause.

In conclusion, and after reviewing a range of scientific studies to gain a present-day understanding of this issue, it appears that owners of onsite septic systems can continue to enjoy the benefits that softened water provides, without concerns of system damage.

Bill Cordonna is president of CAI Technologies, based in the Philadelphia, PA USA area. CAI is composed of two groups, the Catalyst Technology Group and Water Treatment Group. Founded in 1991, the company is a global provider of environmental systems and consulting services for emission control and water treatment. Bill can be reached at 215-679-0470 or by email at cordonna@gmail.com

Alternatives to Flush Toilets and Septic Systsems - A Guide

Information is available on the Internet for anyone researching alternatives to flush toilets, septic systems and hookup. Most of these products and technologies have been designed to address one or both of the two central problems presented by flushing away human waste.

Problem one is the use of water to flush waste. A single flush can use up to eight gallons of water, with a household of four people using more than two hundred gallons a day just to flush the toilet. Low-flow toilets address this problem by reducing the amount of water used and increasing the velocity of the flush. Waterless toilets eliminate the use of water altogether.

Problem two is when the ground cannot properly handle human waste at a given site or in a given watershed area that would otherwise use a septic system. Categories of products and systems addressing this problem include advanced treatment systems, microbiotic treatment systems, portable potties, holding tanks, lagoon systems, evaportranspiration systems, chemical toilets, digestor tanks, composting toilets, incinerating toilets and evaporative toilets.

Advanced treatment systems and microbiotic treatment systems improve on septic systems. With more treatment the waste is turned into a safer discharge, doing on site what waste treatment plants do for sewage.

Portable toilets/chemical toilets simply collect the waste in small tanks that have a substantial amount of liquid chemicals pre-loaded for the purpose of killing pathogens and controlling odor. The tanks are then pumped and trucked away for disposal or drained into septic systems or sewers. Variations of these are also used in RV's, boats, trains and planes.

Holding tanks are large tanks sunk into the ground. They are pumped periodically and are typically used for large public facilities such as rest stops and public parks.

Lagoon systems are ponds that collect sewage. Solids settle to the bottom of the pond and the liquids evaporate. These are widely used by small towns, campgrounds, resort areas, recreation areas and clusters of homes.

Evapotranspiration systems put liquid waste out on top of the ground for evaporation as well as absorption by trees, shrubs, plants and grass.

Digestor tanks collect and break down all waste and trash, producing both methane gas that can be used for fuel, and humus.

Composting toilets collect human waste and turn it into humus.

Incinerating toilets burn the waste, reducing it to a fine ash.

Evaporating toilets evaporate the waste. Depending on the methodology, these either reduce or eliminate the amount of waste needing to be pumped.

Three factors figure into the evaluation process of these products and systems. They are appropriateness, cost of system and cost of operating.

Is the system appropriate? Systems requiring water won't work where there is no running water or the ground won't perc. Systems not allowed by the local codes also get ruled out unless a waiver is granted. (In many cases a waiver will be granted.) Systems too small or too large for the anticipated usage should be ruled out. Systems that cannot stand up to local conditions, such as freezing, or to intermittent use such as seasonal cabins, would also be ruled out. For example, aerobic systems that spray treated waste need a constant supply of waste to treat because otherwise the bacteria they require will not multiply sufficiently to do the job.

Cost. In computing costs of a system be sure to factor in labor and any additional material required, such as sand or gravel. With septic systems the greater the amount of leech lines required, the greater willl be the amount of needed land and the cost of the leech lines.

Operational costs. How much power, chemicals and system maintenance will be required? Are there pumping and disposal fees? Do any components need periodic replacing? How long will the system last? Can the system be left unattended and unused for extended periods of time without needing servicing to start up and resume proper functioning? Does the system need to be winterized?

Most professionals in the sanitation industry will tell you that proper sanitation can be provided for any situation. But remember, the advice is no better than the information you provide. So, ask and seek, don't be bashful!

Losoncy is the president of Clean Up America, Inc., a company that markets a new type of evaporative sanitation system known as the Eloo. To learn more about Eloos go to

http://www.ElOO.US

DIY Bathroom Plumbing - Sewer and Septic Odor

One common problem many homeowners run into is a sewer or septic odor in their bathroom. It may not be strong, it may not be constant, and it may only occur occasionally but it can be annoying and/or embarrassing when it does happen. Often the first inclination of the homeowner is to attempt to use a cleaner or deodorizing agent to stop the odor. While this may mask the problem, it usually will not address it. One important note for homeowners with septic systems - be careful of what chemicals you put down your drains - bleach and other cleaners can harm the normal operation of your septic system - check with a professional first.

Every drain in your home plumbing system should have a trap installed as part of the line. This is simply a curved section of pipe that "traps" water in it. If you look under your sink you should see an example of a trap. This will usually be a straight portion of pipe from the sink connected to a curved section that dips down and then back up before connecting to another horizontal section where the water exits. If you were to look inside your wall you would see a "T" section where the pipe goes down to your septic/sewer and up to an external vent.

The purpose of the trap is not to capture jewelry or other object dropped down the drain as many think but to hold water to prevent sewer/septic gas (and odor) from entering your bathroom. Every time you use the sink, shower, or tub some water collects in the trap blocking the gases and odor. If a component of your bathroom is not used frequently (i.e, the bath in a guest bathroom) then the water can evaporate and allow some gases to escape back into the bathroom. The good news is that this is very simple to prevent and/or fix. The solution: pour water down the drain. If you keep the trap full of water by running the water periodically you should not have any problems with odor. If this was the cause of your problem then the odor should dissipate in a short period of time once there is water in the trap.

Another possible cause for odor is the build up of slime, mold, hair, etc in the tailpiece (the portion of pipe that comes out the bottom of your sink) or overflow of your sink. The popup stopper in many bathroom sinks and tubs can also build up this "gunk". Use a small flashlight to check and see if you do have any buildup. If you do, clean the buildup out (remember to use a cleaner that is safe for your sewer or septic system) and see if that addresses your odor problem.

If the odor persists, it could indicate a more serious problem and you may want to consult a professional - they will have the tools to correctly diagnose and fix your problem.

Ray Breitenbach writes for Simple Home Repairs. Please visit for more information on how to perform you own basic home repairs.